UKC

Pembroke Round-Up & E8 Onsight for McHaffie

© Neil Mawson
Jack Geldard

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Leap E8 gets multiple ascents and James McHaffie onsights Point Blank and more:

The last few weeks have seen multiple ascents of James Pearson's relatively new Pembroke route 'Do You know Where your Children are?' (E8) in Huntsman's Leap.

Dave Pickford making a repeat of the interestingly named 'Do You know Where your Children are?' - E8 © Neil Mawson
Dave Pickford making a repeat of the interestingly named 'Do You know Where your Children are?' - E8
© Neil Mawson

The route has succumbed to Charlie Woodburn (see DMM News), Dave Pickford, Neil Mawson and Rob Lamey. James was initially unsure of the grade, suggesting maybe E8 or E9. Repeat ascensionists have settled the grade down to E8 and Mawson described the route as being a runout 7c+ with reasonable gear.

Rob Lamey also made a bold flash of the run-out Huntsman's Leap E7 Boat to Naxos.

Also on the impressive Pembroke front, James McHaffie had a quick weekend trip down there.

Reticent as ever, James, when I asked him what he had got up to, said "Don't write anything cheesy".

James McHaffie onsighting Point Blank E8 in Stennis Ford © Andrew Morris
James McHaffie onsighting Point Blank E8 in Stennis Ford
© Andrew Morris

James McHaffie onsighting Point Blank E8 in a quick weekend hit. © Andrew Morris
James McHaffie onsighting Point Blank E8 in a quick weekend hit.
© Andrew Morris
I'll let his ticklist do the talking. James was slightly tired when he arrived, having only had one rest day after trying Rainshadow (9a) at Malham, but a bit of fatigue didn't slow him down too much... and it goes without saying all the following routes are climbed onsight:

Day 1 (tired):

  • Stennis the Menace (E6 6c)
  • The Great Elmyra (E6 6c)
  • From a Distance (E6/7 6c)

Day 2 (not as tired any more!)

  • Little Hunt (E6 6b)
  • Unknown E5
  • Point Blank (E8 6c)
  • Subterraneon (E7 6c) - James thought this was a serious E7, but he did say he was feeling a little tired by this point.

Day 3 - morning quick hit:

  • Dusk till Dawn (E7)

James was climbing with Ben Bransby who also made short work of Point Blank after James, flashing the route on James' gear.

photo
James McHaffie - Point Blank E8
© Andrew Morris

Neil Mawson is sponsored by Marmot , Zero-G Climbing , Five Ten and Climbing Technology

Charlie Woodburn is sponsored by Beta Climbing Designs, DMM and Sterling Rope

James McHaffie is sponsored by Wild Country , Sterling Rope and Red Chili

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Comments

Owen W-G
5 Sep, 2011
Monster few days for James. 4x E6, 2x E7, E8 Is that sort of thing unprecedented, even by his standards?
AJM
5 Sep, 2011
I don't know whether it was hitting the route or not, it was quite windy so it may have been blowing straight over the top, but whilst I was taking those point blank photos it was drizzling as well - I'm quite surprised any of them came out to be honest...
Wft
5 Sep, 2011
the juggernaut of trad. The rock in the top picture looks amazing and I like Pearson's route name, especially in light of the riots
TobyA
5 Sep, 2011
-) The bottom one in particular is great - I love those lots of rock, little climber pics.
AJM
5 Sep, 2011
It's quite a coincidence really, we were walking out into the Range and it started drizzling, so we said we would wander as far as Stennis Ford and see if it got any better, and arrived to see someone on the resting holds on From a Distance. Got the camera out when I saw him move left rather than keep going up. If the weather had been a bit worse and we had turned around we would have missed it!
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