UKC

Jordan Buys is Loaded (E8 7a) and a Snap Decision

© Cat Nelson
Jordan Buys on Loaded (E8 7a) Ilkley Quarry  © Scott Mackenzie / www.fightgravity.co.uk
Jordan Buys on Loaded (E8 7a) Ilkley Quarry
© Scott Mackenzie / www.fightgravity.co.uk
Jordan Buys has made the long-awaited second ascent of Loaded (E8 7a) at Ilkley Quarry, Yorkshire.

Loaded, a striking quarried gritstone arete, has repelled many would-be repeaters over the years, despite being reasonably safe. The F8b level of climbing on thin and technical crimps, in a run-out position, enough to put a stopper on most people's efforts.

The line breaks rightwards from halfway up the classic finger locking line of Wellington Crack (E4 6a), where a desperate sequence of sidepulls lands you on an obvious crimp on the arete. From here it just gets harder.

The route has changed slightly since the first ascent by John Dunne back in 1997. Bradford Council removed a huge capping block from the top of the route, which whilst not affecting the climbing, did keep Loaded and Wellington Crack in a much cleaner state than they are now. Green lichen has proliferated on that face.

Jordan commented to UKC:

"I found it really greasy rock, day one involved chalking, brushing and doing the thing in small overlapping sections. Go home. Come back next day and just have a blast through. Guess it's the way I sport climb. Why bother top roping it in one. Save that for the big send, you don't want to have done it twice..!"

The news was broken on the UKC forums a couple of days ago by John Roberts, who wrote up an account of the day on his blog. More details: UKC Forums.

Jordan Buys making technical moves to gain the arete of Loaded (E8 7a).  © Cat Nelson
Jordan Buys making technical moves to gain the arete of Loaded (E8 7a).
© Cat Nelson


Naomi Buys pulling through the final steep section of Snap Decision (E7 6c) Ilkley Quarry  © Scott Mackenzie / www.fightgravity.co.uk
Naomi Buys pulling through the final steep section of Snap Decision (E7 6c) Ilkley Quarry
© Scott Mackenzie / www.fightgravity.co.uk

Naomi Buys Repeats Snap Decision - E7 6c

On the same day as Jordan climbed Loaded, another of John Dunne's Ilkley Quarry routes had a repeat. Naomi Buys repeated Snap Decision (E7 6c) on the wall to the right of Loaded.

Snap Decision is a technical wall and groove climb which launches from easier ground on to a hanging flake, passes a reportedly reasonable peg, before committing to a thin and balancy groove with a roof top-out.

The upper groove once sported a very poor peg, but this has now bitten the dust.

Naomi has also been climbing very well on the sport routes this year with ascents of GBH (8a+) and Raindogs (8a) at Malham, as well as The Bulge (7c+/8a) at Kilnsey.


Jordan and Naomi are sponsored by Moon Climbing , Wild Country , Boreal

Thanks go to Scott Mackenzie, John Roberts and Cat Nelson for the photographs. Follow Scott's blog at www.fightgravity.co.uk

Read John Roberts' original write up on his blog at: jr-climbing.co.uk


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26 Oct, 2011
Nice one! Saw some chalk on gerty berwick as well yesterday...
26 Oct, 2011
) its me, alec.
27 Oct, 2011
I saw the chalk on Loaded on Saturday and was in awe of the line. Well done to both of you. Marq
27 Oct, 2011
Hi Alec!!!! Thanks, and great to hear from you. Hope the new job is treating you well : )
27 Oct, 2011
My ignorance about trad is getting the better of me. In the top photo he has twin ropes but the nature of the route only sees the left rope clipped to any gear. So why not do it on a single rope? Or is the right rope clipped to something / in someone's hands to brake the swing if he comes off the traverse? Cheers guys
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