VIDEO: 9a's by Ondra and Gelmanov

Rustam Gelmanov on Action Direct, 9a, Waldkopff, Frankenjura  © Anna Piunova/Mountain.ru
Rustam Gelmanov on Action Direct, 9a, Waldkopff, Frankenjura
© Anna Piunova/Mountain.ru

Adam Ondra and Rustam Gelmanov have both climbed 9a's lately. For Adam, this is pretty much business as usual, whereas it is more rare for Rustam who is best known as a World Cup boulderer.

What's rather unusual about Adam's ascent is that it was bolted ground up. I don't know if this has ever been done on a 9a, but I doubt it, and it looks epic.
The name of the new route is To tu ještě nebylo and it's located in the Elbe valley in the Czech Republic.

Lately, the young Czech has been spending time working an infamous project at Oliana with Chris Sharma. Cedric Lachat, who is quite a strong climber himself had a play on it and said that, in comparison, Shaxi, 9a+, felt like a warm up. This would mean it's not easy. Or as Adam put it ...the preliminary name speaks for itself - La dura dura...

Video below.

If Adam's route was unusual, I guess Rustam's couldn't be more classic. Wolfgang Güllich's Action direct at Waldkopff in Frankenjura was first climbed more than 20 years ago for first ever of the grade .

This was the Russian's 2nd 9a after Kinematix at Gorges du Loup which he did in 2008.


Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Montura, La Sportiva, Beal and Hudy Sports

Rustam Gelmanov is sponsored by: Salewa and Red Bull


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Adam started climbing at about the same time he learned to walk. He hasn't stopped ever since.

When 8 years old, Adam onsighted routes graded 7b+ (5.12c). At age 13 he climbed his first 9a (5.14d).

At...

Adam's Athlete Page 77 posts 22 videos



27 Mar, 2012
I'm guessing that's a strict local ethic or something, otherwise it's weird.
27 Mar, 2012
very weird! Slightly dodgy bolts seems a possible result?
27 Mar, 2012
The bolts feel very reassuring. They first put in a small bolt to hang from and then put in one of the extra large ringbolts they use in the area. The ground-up ethics is strictly enforced. A really hard route for its time that was put up ago on the German side was chopped and stricken from the guide- and history-books after some evidence was found that a part of the route was practiced on top rope before bolting.
27 Mar, 2012
It's a hard ethic to get my British/Scandinavia head around - not quite sure why two holes are better than one. But then in the UK we insist of leaving numerous rusting pegs and nuts tied together with rotted hanks of rope for abseil stations, rather than two nice neat bolts, and that doesn't make a lot sense either! Having broken a drill bit drilling soft wood on sunday, I can imagine flying off with a drill in your hand means going through rather a lot of drill bits!
27 Mar, 2012
Surely that means there ends up being lots of half bolted/very short/rubbish routes with lots of bolts, from when a climber starts bolting what appears to be a good line then runs out of holds/hits bad rock. Seems messy and backward to me
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