UKC

Font 8A at The Cuttings for Young Pair

© Tommy Harris

Young climbers Ellis Butler-Barker (16) and James Squire (16) have both made fast ascents of the technical and slightly high-ball Font 8A problem of Guy Fawkes at The Cuttings, Dorset.

Ellis Butler Barker on the thin crimps of Guy Fawkes, Font 8A  © Tommy Harris
Ellis Butler Barker on the thin crimps of Guy Fawkes, Font 8A
© Tommy Harris

Ellis Butler Barker on the high finish to Guy Fawkes, The Cuttings.  © Tommy Harris
Ellis Butler Barker on the high finish to Guy Fawkes, The Cuttings.
© Tommy Harris
Ellis, from Devon, has been climbing less than two years, and has been romping through the grades. Read his account of his ascent of Guy Fawkes on his blog.

James Squire was previously in the UKC news with his ascents of other 8A problems here and here, and said of Guy Fawkes:

"After an early start, my family and I drove down to Portland, picking Ellis up on the way and headed over to The Cuttings crag and boulder field. The problem I was hoping to try was called Guy Fawkes (font 8a) originally climbed by Jimbo Kimber in 1999 and given 7c+, but afterwards a good starting jug (used for crucial feet in the crux) had broken off and was then climbed by John Gaskins at 7c+/8a and was then climbed again by strong traveller Dan Kennard and thought to be benchmark 8a. History lesson over, back to the climbing...

... After a gentle warm up, I flashed the stand-up version called 'Gunpowder Plot' at soft 6c and started working this sit start being 'Guy Fawkes' 8a. Within about half an hour I had all the beta and moves sorted: undercut into side pull, over to two horrible crimps, big move out left and into the stand! The next 45 mins was spent trying it from the start involving many close attempts but finally I pulled on and screamed my way through to the finish! Making that my first font 8a since my finger injury and my first climb of the year! (If you heard my power screams from anywhere further than London please let me know)."

Read the rest of James' account on his blog.


This post has been read 12,279 times

Return to Latest News


I grew up with a background in sport, competing in gymnastics and then rugby from an early age. I got into climbing when I was around 14 or 15. Straight away I knew that I was in love with the sport, I bought some shoes...

Ellis's Athlete Page 16 posts 1 video

James Squire is a top British boulderer, mainly operating in the south of England. He has established many grade 8 boulder problems. His crowning achievement so far is the first ascent of 

James's Athlete Page 13 posts


Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing.com the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing.com then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

8 Jan, 2013
Font8A in less than 2 years of climbing is massively impressive.
8 Jan, 2013
On his blog the climber claims to weigh 80lbs!
8 Jan, 2013
Wow, one of my legs weighs 80lbs!
9 Jan, 2013
Awesome achievement! Just keep raising the grades!!
9 Jan, 2013
This problem is nails. Nice work!
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest