UKC

Megos repeats Action directe, 9a, in two hours

© Jorgos Megos/Frankenjura.com

Alex Megos  © Jorgos Megos/Frankenjura.com
Alex Megos
© Jorgos Megos/Frankenjura.com

Alex Megos has made the quickest repeat to date of Wolfgang Güllich's legendary 1991 test piece Action directe, 9a, at Waldfkopf, Frankenjura.

What's extraordinary is that he needed only two hours and a handful of attempts! Of course, he had watched videos of other repeats, but that's it.

Other 9a's have been done quicker, like for example Alex' own onsight of Estado Critico at Siurana, but Action directe is notorious for being very difficult to figure out quickly. The style, with almost only shallow one and two finger pockets, demands extreme accuracy. Well, that or super human strength I guess...

Doing both hard routes and hard boulder problems seems to have been the working formula as he recently returned from a short trip to Magic wood/Averstal where he managed to repeat things like Die unendliche Geschichte, 8B+, Riverbed, 8B, One summer in paradise, 8B, Steppenwulf, 8B, and Jack's broken heart<7i>, 8A+ flash.

Source: Frankenjura.com


Alex Megos is sponsored by: Blue Water Ropes, DMM, Entre-Prises, Patagonia and Tenaya


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Alex has risen quickly through the ranks of German climbers to become a globetrotting superstar of the modern climbing scene. His phenomenal sport climbing achievements place him as one of the most important climbers of...

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4 May, 2014
Get him on Hubble immediately!
4 May, 2014
He tried it in March
4 May, 2014
How did he do?
4 May, 2014
Close but no cigar
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