Alex Megos has made the first ascent of Geocache, a "not really hard, just a bit strange" route just east of the Krottensee village, Frankenjura.
FINALLY!!! LONGEST PROJECT EVER so far!!! "Geocache" took me 6 DAYS and 40+ TRIES! Despite this fact I don't think it is really hard, just a bit strange... here the coordinates for the geocachers: N 49.634386, O 11.594101 go and find out.
After that I went to Action Directe to belay and also did my 4th ascent of it first try (even the jump) on that day!
Still having time we went to "Sundance Kid" an 8c where a hold broke and I reclimbed that making it 9a!
So... to summarize this, Alex climbed three routes graded "9a or harder" in a day, two of which were first ascents and one he had done previously. Assuming Geocache is at least 9a of course, but that's kind of a given, right?
Here are Alex' own words about how it went down:
When I checked it out the first time
I thought 3 tries.
Did 12 tries that day...
Came back 3 days later:
Again 10 tries
Came back after the Rocklands trip
Felt WAAY stronger and better!
Did the move 4 times, fell afterwards,
Couldn't believe it.
Came back the next day.
Did another 10 tries and was SURE I would do it.
Came back 2 days later and didn't feel it.
So it didn't happen that day either.
Then came back after my trip to Chamonix.
Warmed up on 2 routes
Did it first try without checking it out again
And it felt ok. Hard but ok
Like I expected it to feel in my 3rd go, only that it happened in my 43rd go and not in the 3rd...
About the grade, Alex says it's very difficult to say anything before someone else has tried it. Luckily Gabri Moroni comes to visit soon.
Alex Megos is sponsored by: DMM, Patagonia and Tenaya Blue Water Ropes and Entre-Prises