UKC

La Voie Petit, 8b MP above 3500m by the Marins

The Marin-team, 73 kb
The Marin-team
© Edu marin coll.
Edu Marin has repeated La Voie Petit, a 450m multi-pitch on the Grand Capucin topping out at around 4000m in the Mt Blanc massif above Chamonix, France. He climbed the route together with his father, Novato Marin.

La Voie Petit was put up in 1997 by Arnaud Petit and Stéphanie Bodet and was first climbed free by Alex Huber in 2005. It took the Marins 15h to climb the route once they were acclimatized and Edu calls it one of the hardest things they have done in those circumstances. At the limit for both body and mind. 

The ~450m route was originally climbed in 16 pitches, but the Marins linked some of them together and did it in 14. The easier ones are protected with traditional gear while the harder parts have some pitons and bolts. The crux pitch is a ~40m ninety-degree corner with a four-meter roof at the end, but even with this done, the difficulties aren't over. A very delicate 8a near the top still awaits.

The Marin-team is now very close to finishing their Alp-project:

Orbayu, 8c MP - check

Digital crack, 8a, on 3800m - check

La Voie Petit, 8b MP - check

Sansara, 8b+ MP - still to do

So, I guess it's not too far fetched to assume their next objective is Alex Huber's Sansara on the East face of the Grubhorn, near the Tyrolean village Lofer. This route was first climbed free in June 2008.

 

 

 

 

Edu Marin is sponsored by: Boreal, Bou, Mammut, Totem and Vèrtic



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