James McHaffie's Summer Ticklist of Trad Onsights

James McHaffie (the dark lord of British climbing) is always out there onsighting hard route after hard route. We know it, everyone knows it, and to be honest we just don't have the bandwidth to report every time this Cumbrian trad-master knocks out another E7 onsight.

James McHaffie on a trip to Spain in 2015, 209 kb
James McHaffie on a trip to Spain in 2015
© Rab / Ray Wood

Preferring to climb onsight or if that fails then ground-up, James McHaffie has amassed a UK trad ticklist that is literally second to none. He commented (when pushed):

"I can probably get the 100 E7 onsights over the next 5 years I think. I'm above 70 now."

So, in no specific order here are most (not all!) of James' routes of E6 and above that he has climbed onsight or ground-up in the summer of 2015.


E6 6b/c  

Horizontal Pleasures

E7 6c


Monster in a Box

E7 6c  

Roof of the World 

E7 6b  

Katie's delight 

E7 6c  Was originally thought E8
Imminent Departees  E7 6c  
Wee Laddies  E6 6b  
Big Boys  E7 6b  
Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000)  E6 6b  
The Good, The Bad And The Ugly  E7 6b  
Dreaming Again  E6 6c  
An American Werewolf on Lundy  E6 6b  
Absinthe  E6 6a  
Surreal Appeal  E7 6b/c  
The Flying Dutchman  E7 6c  
The fifth ace  E7 6b  
Intensive Scare (Intensive Care)  E7 6b  
Incantations  E6 6b  
Painted Rumour  E6 6a  
Divided Years  E8 7a Ground Up
Extinction  E8 6c

Ground Up - was tired from a lot the day before

Nowt but a Fleein' Thing E8 6c  Ground Up
Pieceline  E8 6c Ground Up - no falls
Callipigian Groove  E6 6b  
M35 (A35)  E6 6b More like E4 IMO

Also of note is of course James' ascent of Coeur de Lion (E8 7a) on the slate after a couple of goes self belaying on a Grigri, and, not really being a sport climber he thought he'd have a punt and managed a few bolted climbs this year too, such as Megalopa (8c+) at LPT, and Mind Control 8c+ at Oliana in Spain.

James also had what he called a 'good day' in Yorkshire onsighting Supercool 8a+, Cave Route Left-hand 7c+, Dogpoint (Last Dog then Pierrepoint over the roof to the top) 7c+, and then finishing on a route he had done before with a warm down burn on Mescalito 7c+.

This isn't the full list, as James has also done countless E4s and E5s and grade 8 sport redpoints this year too.


James McHaffie is sponsored by: BMC, Boreal, DMM, Rab and Sterling Rope

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