UKC

8c and 8b+ trad by Jacopo Larcher

Jacopo Larcher, 100 kb
Jacopo Larcher
© Klaus Dell’Orto
Jacopo Larcher has made the first tradtional ascent of Alessandro Manini's route Lapoterapia, 8c, at Osso, Italy. He has also repeated the very thin and technical Psychogramm, 8b+, at the Bürser Platte, for a nice double. Its neighbour Prinzip Hoffnung is perhaps more familiar.

This is what he told Pierre Delas/Fanatic climbing after his ascent of Lapoterapia:

Lapoterapia is a 20/25 meters long 8c route located at Osso (Italy). It was bolted back in the years by Maurizzio Pellizzon, and it was first ascended by the silent strong local climber Alessandro Manini in 2012.  

In 2013, the italian rock star Gabri Moroni made the second ascent of the route and confirmed the grade.
The last weekend of November I visited Osso by chance, and got attracted by the beauty of that flared crack. I immediately realized that it would have been possibile to climb it on trad, but I didn't have any gear with me, so I climbed it clipping the bolts, making the 3rd ascent of the route.
I was of course happy about my ascent, but the idea to climb it on gear was too tempting...and after just a few days at home, I drove back to Osso with some pads and gear.
I arrived late in the evening, so I decided to rap down the route and check out the gear placements by headlamp, in order to save some time for my attempts on the following days.
As you can't place any gear until the fourth bolt, I used two crash pads to "protect" that section. The first crux is protected by a small but good cam (if it pops you fall straight on the ground) and the following sections by some micro cams. 
Doing it on trad, the real crux becomes to place the small cams (Red C3 and 0.1 X4) before the hardest section, as the placement is not so obvious and the holds aren't really good. From there, you have to climb the hardest section (long runout) before you can place some more gear and do the last section.
I fell 2 times at the end of the hardest section, before I did it on my 3rd go (on gear).

A few days later, he managed to repeat Alex Lugers Psychogramm, 8b+, at the Bürser Platte. Luger made the first ascent in February last year and it has since been repeated by Fabi Buhl in January this year. Due to the miniscule size of the holds, low temperature is a key factor on these routes.

Yuhuu...also "Psychogramm" at the Bürser Platter is no more on the "to-do" list!​

I'm really happy to witness the mental progress over the last year: this time I felt completly safe... even with just one belayer :)
Big thanks to the one and only Babsi [Zangerl] for the (freezing) belay and the support!

Jacopo is the competition climber who discovered bouldering and sport climbing on rock was more interesting to him, and then moved on to traditional climbing and multi-pitches. Having done it all on a high level, he is now one of the most accomplished all-rounders out there:

- Sport climbing up to 9a redpoint and 8b+ onsight

- Bouldering up to 8B/+

- Trad up to E9/E10 and 8c

 - Multipitch up to 8b+ redpoint and 8a+ onsight on gear

- Ice up to WI6+

- Italian Bouldering Champion, 2010

Yuhuu...also "Psychogramm" at the Bürser Platter is no more on the "to-do" list!

Jacopo Larcher is sponsored by: Black Diamond, La Sportiva, Smith optics, Sterling Rope and The North Face



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