UKC

Action in the Villanueva del Rosario cave by Seb Bouin

Seb Bouin on Mangarbo, 9a/+, Villanueva del Rosario, Andalusia, 229 kb
Seb Bouin on Mangarbo, 9a/+, Villanueva del Rosario, Andalusia
© Victor Romera
Last year, Seb Bouin repeated Chilam Balam, ~9a+/b, in the Villanueva del Rosario cave in Andalusia. Now he has been back for more.
So, I did three routes in this cave: Mandanga total, 9a, in five goes, Bushido de shiva, 8c+, in four goes, and Mangarbo, 9a/9a+.

This is the story of Mangarbo :
Mangarbo is a tribute to the first name of the Planta de shiva. There are two equippers that worked on the Planta de shiva. The first guy bolted the second pitch before bolting the first which he called Garbo. And the second guy who bolted the second pitch after which they called  [the whole route] Planta de Shiva.
Mangarbo is a combination between Mandanga total and the second pitch of the Planta de shiva. Which leads to Mangarbo being a mix between Mandanga and Garbo. 
This route joins the Planta de shiva in the middle of the second pitch. You do all the hard part of the Mandanga Total and you finish with resistence in the Planta. This route is very cool because you start with the continuity and finish with lots of resistance.

Why did I try this route?
At the beginning of the trip I had three goals :
- Send Mandanga Total
- Do two 8c+ (Bushido de Shiva and La Chispa)
- Work the Planta de Shiva, 9b

But when I arrived, Angela Eiter had broken the hold on the Planta de Shiva, which allowed you to be able to rest.
Should we then reconstruct
the hold? Personally I think not because you can climb the route without it. Only It's more resitant and harder. Mangarbo is a great route to get the necessary resistance. In the end, the section where the hold is missing is very doable. It's not necessary to reconstruct it. It's only more pumpy.  

La Planta de Shiva is now a bit harder, but the route is nicer like this because It's full on resistence!!!!!
We have time and we will back even stronger!!!
For the grade [of Mangarbo] I propose 9a/9a+ , we will see with the next repititions. Edu Marin is here, he's trying Mangarbo and La Planta de Shiva.
 
 

Sebastien Bouin is sponsored by: EB, Nograd, Tendon and YY Climbing belay glasses



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