UKC

Divine providence by Nina Caprez

Nina Caprez, 76 kb
Nina Caprez
© Sam Challéat
Nina Caprez has, together with her boyfriend, repeated the rarely free climbed 900m route Divine Providence on the Grand pilier d'angle in the Mont Blanc massif. The route tops out on the summit of Mt Blanc itself 4810 above the sea, although the actual climbing is over a few hundred meters lower.

The first ascent of the route was made my Patrick Gabarrou and Francois Marsigny in July 1984 as an ABO A2/A3 (Abominablement difficile).

In 1990 it was climbed free bt Alain Ghersen and Thierry Ranault who gave the hardest pitch 7c. It has since been soloed by Jean Christophe Lafaille in 1990 and first onsighted by Denis Burdet and Nicolas Zambetti in 2002.

Even though the free grade has now come down to 7b+ it's still a formidable undertaking to climb given the elevation and the fact that the crux pitches are often wet or icy.

The first half of the route offers mostly easy climbing in the 5th grade with only a couple of 6th grade pitches. However...the rock is very lose.

After this, the quality improves considerably, and so does the difficulty. Technically demanding climbing in the 7th grade follows, with the crux section being the two pitch big overhanging dihedral.

Nina needed three days in total and climbed the route in "alpine, sport and ice style, leading and onsighting the pure climbing part".

As far as I can gather, Nina's was the first female free ascent.

Nina Caprez is sponsored by: Arc'teryx, Chimpbar, Lyofood, MSR, Petzl, Power beef and Scarpa



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