Nina Caprez


About


Switzerland
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"Live only the life you want."

My passion for climbing started as soon as I stepped into my first real climbing shoes, I knew that this is my sport.

I grew up in the middle of the Swiss mountains in a valley called Prattigau. After finishing high school, finding no solid direction in normal life I decided to leave the "routine" and chose to continue my life as a climber. My desire to practice this sport with all its facets was so strong, that I was able to overcome all the obstacles that I came across to pursue my lifestyle.

Besides rockclimbing and mountaineering I also spent time competing. During this time, I learned a lot how I have to train and what I have to do, to become a stronger climber. This made me become an even stronger rock-climber, quickly making it possible for me to red-point my first 8b route.

After a while, I lost the motivation for competitions and I started to concentrate more and more on what was for me pure rockclimbing. I travelled all around the world and climbed on all kinds of rocks. From big wall climbing in Patagonia and Kyrgyzstan to boulder trips in Argentina, from deep water soloing in Thailand to sport climbing all around Europe and America. All these experiences and all these different styles of rock climbing gave me so much practice, that it made me the well rounded climber I am now.

Through all these experiences as a rock climber, I found my big challenge: I want to climb the hardest multi pitch routes in the world. To be able to climb a hard multi pitch route in one day, that is my goal and what I am searching for.

Routes like 'Ultime démence', 5 pitches 8a+, 'la Ramirole', 5 pitches 8b, 'Hotel Supramonte' 11 pitches 8b or 'Silbergeier' 6 pitches 8b+, are the most beautiful sucesses in my climbing life.

I love my 'non-system' life. To be able to decide myself how I will earn my money, where I will live, when I will get up in the morning. To do what I need to do to survive. And most importantly: to enjoy every single day, with the least amount of seriousness as possible and to climb to my very best!

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View the reviews and news from Nina's sponsors.

Best IFSC Results

This athlete has competed internationally


Latest News & Articles

News posts and Articles featuring Nina

Lynn Hill and Nina Caprez.  © Bryan Liptzin

Interview Perfect Partners #17 - Lynn Hill and Nina Caprez

In 1993 Lynn Hill made climbing history by becoming the first person to free climb The Nose on El Capitan, perhaps the world's most famous rock climb. A year later she returned to make a one-day free ascent. As of 2019 only seven climbers have ...

Barbara Zangerl and Nina Caprez  © UKC News
Barbara Zangerl and Nina Caprez  © UKC News

Video Neverending Story 8b+: Barbara Zangerl & Nina Caprez

In 2015, Austrian Barbara Zangerl and Swiss climber Nina Caprez made the third and fourth ascents of Beat Kammerlander's historic 450m Unendliche Geschichte (Neverending Story) 8b+ in Switzerland's Rätikon range Established in 1990,...

Nina Caprez - To Bolt or Not To Be  © Arc'teryx
Nina Caprez - To Bolt or Not To Be  © Arc'teryx

Video Nina Caprez - To Bolt Or Not To Be

In this short film, Nina Caprez recounts her story of attempting 'To Bolt or Not to Be' (8b+) at Smith Rock, Oregon. Jean Baptiste Tribout climbing the route in 1986 and it was the first 8b+ in North America. It was also one of the first ascents that...

Nina Caprez  ©  Sam Challéat
Nina Caprez  ©  Sam Challéat

News Divine providence by Nina Caprez

Nina Caprez has, together with her boyfriend, repeated the rarely free climbed 900m route Divine Providence on the Grand pilier...

Nina Caprez climbing Nartanesi, 8c, at Cidtibi, Turkey  © G. Broust / Petzl
Nina Caprez climbing Nartanesi, 8c, at Cidtibi, Turkey  © G. Broust / Petzl

News Nartanesi, 8c, by Nina Caprez

Nina Caprez in the Verdon Gorge  © Arc'teryx (screen shot from film)
Nina Caprez in the Verdon Gorge  © Arc'teryx (screen shot from film)

News Fri Ni Vid: Jonathan Siegrist & Nina Caprez - Verdon

American climber, Jonathan Siegrist, embarks on a journey to France to pay tribute to the roots of...

Nina Caprez  © Stefan Schlumpf
Nina Caprez  © Stefan Schlumpf

Interview Nina Caprez - Silbergeier - Alpine 8b/+

Nina Caprez has become the first woman to climb the iconic route of Silbergeier in the Rätikon,...


Latest Reviews for Nina's Sponsors

Reviews from the UKC editorial team

Sport Climbing Harness review  © UKC Gear

Lightweight Sport Climbing Harnesses

For a dedicated sport climbing harness you will want something light, comfortable and fairly simple. In this group test the UKC team go through some of the best lightweight sport harnesses on offer.

The Vapour V, once bedded in, smears surprisingly well  © UKC Gear
The Vapour V, once bedded in, smears surprisingly well  © UKC Gear

Scarpa Vapour V

The original Vapour V came out in 2010, but the latest version has seen some big changes. This is very much a shoe of two halves, says Rob Greenwood, and not necessarily an improvement on the older models.

Women's down jackets thumbnail  © UKC Gear
Women's down jackets thumbnail  © UKC Gear

Women's Midweight Down Jackets

Ten women's down jackets from leading brands go head-to-head in this comprehensive group test. What does 'midweight' even mean? And by that definition, which models stand out? All will be revealed...

They're a fantastic all-round technical tool  © UKC Gear
They're a fantastic all-round technical tool  © UKC Gear

Petzl NOMIC and ERGONOMIC

Martin McKenna makes the best of a lean season to trial Petzl's two new top-end technical ice tools.

mountain boots group test  © UKC Gear
mountain boots group test  © UKC Gear

All Round B1-B2 Mountain Boots

Mountaineering involves all sorts of terrain, so a general mountain boot has to be an all-rounder. We look at eight models that...

ISPO 2019 top 10 montage  © Nick Brown
ISPO 2019 top 10 montage  © Nick Brown

ISPO 2019 - Best in Show

The annual ISPO outdoor trade show has just wrapped up for 2019. Among the many new products shown to us by attending brands, a number...

Lightweight down jackets montage  © UKC Gear
Lightweight down jackets montage  © UKC Gear

Lightweight Down Jackets

Whether you're climbing, camping or walking - or even just out in town - a light and packable down jacket is a versatile layer...


Latest News from Nina's Sponsors

Annoucements direct from manufacturers

ZG Thumbnail  © Scarpa

The Scarpa Zero Gravity Collection

The Zero Gravity (ZG) family of product represents a new class of product for Scarpa, designed around a fluid and dynamic rolling gait concept and sits alongside the traditional hiking range. The core of the ZG range is a new last shape (called TR...

Enhanced Protection  © Petzl
Enhanced Protection  © Petzl

Petzl Helmets - Top and Side Protection

Petzl's latest helmets guarantee a certain level of protection throughout the entire helmet and not just the top. These helmets carry Petzl's proprietary label--TOP AND SIDE PROTECTION--for easy identification.

The Sticklebarn hayloft set up for a talk  © Jenny Jones Photography
The Sticklebarn hayloft set up for a talk  © Jenny Jones Photography

Raven's Pit, Sticklebarn - Langdale on Friday 3rd May

The National Trust's Sticklebarn pub in the Langdale Valley will be hosting a night of film, ale and tall tales of climbing heritage on Friday 3rd May. 

Instinct VS WMN  © Scarpa
Instinct VS WMN  © Scarpa

Scarpa - Women's Collection: Instinct VSRW, Maestro, Vapor, Arpia

For 2019 Scarpa has released three new women's specific climbing shoes, with an adapted...

Arpia  © Scarpa
Arpia  © Scarpa

Scarpa - Arpia and Vapour V

The Arpia is especially designed for climbers who want to step up to their first high performance shoe. It combines performance...

Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival and Big Mountain Weekend Return

Want to learn or advance your outdoor and mountain skills or try something completely new?

ispo 2019 Footwear and Packs  © UKC
ispo 2019 Footwear and Packs  © UKC

ISPO 2019 - New Footwear and Packs

The annual ISPO trade show, which brings the world's outdoor industry together under one roof (or a series of gigantic...