Unplugged & The House of shock, both 9a, by Koyamada

5th October, 2016

This has been read 7,775 times

Dai Koyamada on Underneath everything, 8c+, Frankenjura, Germany © Koyamada coll. — Dai Koyamada on Underneath everything, 8c+, Frankenjura, Germany
© Koyamada coll.

Dai Koyamada is back in Frankenjura after eight years of absence. Now 40 years old, he seems as strong as ever and has already made quick work of several hard routes including Unplugged and The House of shock, both 9a.

Dai plans to stay in Europe for two months, but he hasn't wasted much time. He started off by repeating some 8c's in two, three goes, then he raised the level and made a 2nd go ascent of Underneath everything, 8c+, and repeated Alex Megos' Zootopia, 8c+/9a.

Then it was time to deal with some unfinished business in the form of Markus Bock's Unplugged at the Hardcore wand. Dai tried it eight years ago but hurt his finger in the process and couldn't continue. This time he needed six tries spread over two days to finish the job.

His next choice was another Bock route: The House of shock, 9a, at Rotenstein. Dai managed to climb the route even though the upper part was wet commenting that ...the last part was still wet so it felt much harder, actually it's not that hard if it's dry. I guess everything is relative though.

Dai Koyamada is sponsored by: Beal, Black Diamond, Evolv, Flashed, Inga and Musashi

This post has been read 7,775 times

Return to Latest News

UKC Advertising

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.