The Never Ending Story 8B+ for James Squire

James Squire has climbed Never Ending Story (8B+), his first of the grade. The problem is perched on the edge of the river at Magic Wood and was first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2003. It is a power endurance test piece and links an 8A+ boulder problem into an 8A, to complete the logical and full line. James is the first Brit to climb the problem.

James on Part 1 of The Never Ending Story, 197 kb
James on Part 1 of The Never Ending Story
© James Squire

James had been working the problem intermittently for the past two years, but decided to focus his attention on it this summer, after completing all the moves. James told UKC:

'Over the last ten days I had a total on five sessions on the boulder before finally managing to put it together 2nd go from the start on Tuesday morning - the day I least expected to climb it.

I felt tied and achey but somehow held it together. This climb was a massive mental battle for me after getting really badly depressed at the start of my trip and climbing this came as a bit of relief. The next day I walked down to the boulder to find the overnight storms had flooded the landing, maybe luck was on my side! I've still got two weeks left here in Magic so I guess I better find another project..."

Last year, James had a very successful trip to Magic Wood, ticking ten problems of 8A and above, including three 8Bs: Steppenwolf, Sofa Surfer Direct and Left Hand of Darkness (low start) .

James is sponsored by: La Sportiva, Petzl and Sublime Brushes

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