NEWSFLASH: Adam Ondra climbs World's first 9c - Silence

Czech climber Adam Ondra has completed his long-term 9c project at the Flatanger cave in Norway, which Adam gave the working title of Project Hard. It is the first route of the grade and the hardest sport climb in the world, which he has since named Silence.

Björn Pohl managed to get hold of Adam for a brief chat:

Yes! Congrats Adam!

Hell yeah, thaaanks.

Hard 9b+? ;)

Yeah, hard 9b+ could be 9c, no? That's what I hope ;-)

Haha, I've got a feeling you're pretty sure it's 9c?

It is hard, much harder than anything else I've done. That's why I hope it's 9c, but I am not sure about it.

Well I guess it's difficult to know for certain at this point. That's the price you pay for leading the way into the unknown realms of difficulty I assume...

Thanks Adam, and congrats once again!

Adam Ondra on Move, 9b/+, Flatanger, Norway  © Ondra collection
Adam Ondra on Move, 9b/+, Flatanger, Norway
© Ondra collection

Adam bolted the project in 2012, which involves steep crack climbing and an impressive bat-hang rest. Adam has described the route as a ~15m 8b to a good but uncomfortable rest, and then a proper ~8C very awkward boulder section, the bat-hang rest, and then another ~8B boulder section near the top.

The three existing 9b+'s in the world, Change (L1+L2) , La Dura dura and Vasil, vasil, were all put up by Adam, and only one, La Dura Dura, has been repeated by Chris Sharma.

It will probably by a while until we know where 9b+ ends and 9c begins.

Adam announced his success in a short and very cryptic Instagram video. 'I'm just really, really happy!' he says.

Speaking to The Guardian for a news piece, he commented:

'I bolted it in 2013. Back then I only tried it for a few days and thought it was way too hard. Then last season I started again. Over seven trips to Norway, I guess I'd say I spent 40 or 50 days trying it.'

On completing the route, he told The Guardian:

'I could not even scream. All I could do was just hang on the rope, feeling tears in my eyes. It was too much joy, relief and excitement all mixed together … Months and months of my life summed up in 20 minutes.'

Watch this space for more information...


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Adam started climbing at about the same time he learned to walk. He hasn't stopped ever since.

When 8 years old, Adam onsighted routes graded 7b+ (5.12c). At age 13 he climbed his first 9a (5.14d).

At...

Adam's Athlete Page 81 posts 23 videos



3 Sep, 2017
Great work. Harder than Gaskins' VNB?
3 Sep, 2017
Amazing stuff, incredible that's he still only 24, seems like he's been pushing the limits forever.
3 Sep, 2017
Interesting that he said last week he didn't feel he deserved the sport climbing award at Arco coz he hadn't done anything that great this year. Not sure who else has done better but seems like he's really earned it now. So that means, if 9c, he's broken through two grade barriers in his career. Not sure who was the last person to do this. I wonder what he'll turn his attention to now. Presumably the Flatanger season is over now. Loads of hard projects in southern Europe though just about to come into good conditions in the coming weeks/months.
3 Sep, 2017
Short vid of Project Hard from his Youtube channel a couple of months ago...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdCtHqmMnjw
3 Sep, 2017
May I ask how you go about bolting a ceiling route ?
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