UKC

2nd ascent of La Capella, 9b, by Stefano Ghisolfi

Stefano Ghisolfi has made the second ascent of Adam Ondra's La Capella, 9b, in the La Capella sector at Siurana. Adam made the first ascent of this relatively short route in February 2011.

Stefano Ghisolfi on La Capella, 9b, Siurana, Spain, 182 kb
Stefano Ghisolfi on La Capella, 9b, Siurana, Spain
© Matteo Pavana/The Vertical Eye

Adam described the 15m route as extremely bouldery: A 7A+/B "warm up" section takes you to two back to back ~8A+/B sections with no real rest between them. After these three boulder problems, which could be compared to one long ~8C boulder, you get some relaxing 7c+ climbing to the top.

Since the first ascent some holds have broken/crumbled and before Stefano began working on it, rumour had it it might be impossible or at least considerably harder in its current state. Then Stefano broke another hold in the second crux... but in the end it worked out and he could climb his 4th 9b!

Finally I took the second ascent of La Capella! This is the right way to start the year, with my 4th 9b in the pocket! Now it is time for Perfecto Mundo!

Perfecto Mundo is of course Chris Sharma's famous 9b+? project at Margalef.

Stefano Ghisolfi is sponsored by: Cassin, E9 and La Sportiva



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