UKC

First Repeat of Hunger 9a by Will Bosi

© Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions

Edinburgh-based Will Bosi (19) has made the coveted first repeat of Malcolm Smith's Hunger (9a) 9a at the Anvil on the east side of Loch Goil. The line was established in 2010 as Scotland's first 9a and is a link-up of Dave Redpath's Fire Power (8b) 8b and Dave MacLeod's Body Blow (8b+) 8b+.

Will Bosi makes the first repeat of Hunger 9a.  © Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions
Will Bosi makes the first repeat of Hunger 9a.
© Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions

The Anvil is a freestanding boulder with three steep sides, which is difficult to find in good condition. The route is 25 metres long and about 60 degrees overhanging. In order to avoid the two hour walk in, Will opted to take his bike to conserve some energy for the route.

Will is consolidating his list of 9a ascents, having completed three so far:

  • Rainshadow, Malham Cove
  • Hubble, Raven Tor
  • Hunger, The Anvil

In addition to these confirmed 9as, last year Will also ticked two 8c+s that were formerly 9a - Jungle Speed and A Muerte in Siurana, Spain.


Why Hunger? When did you first set your sights on it?

I first set myself the goal of climbing Hunger about 6 years ago when my dad bought me the Scottish Sport climbing guide. I pretty much went through the whole book in a couple of days and was so inspired by the Anvil. I did as much research as I could online and knew straight away I had to climb this route. I set it as a life goal and didn't expect to climb it anytime soon.

How much time did you spend on it? Tell us a bit about the process of working it.

It took four days in total but for two of those days it was pouring with rain and conditions were awful. Last year I had a four day trip where I tried it for the first time. I got really close on the first day but that night the weather took a turn and it didn't stop raining for the rest of the trip.
It was a last minute decision on Friday to head in as the weather looked good.

photo
WIll Bosi on Malcolm Smith's Hunger 9a.
© Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions

Is Malcolm Smith a bit of a hero of yours? You've repeated a few of his routes/ascents now.

Yes! The wall I spent the most time at when I was younger was where he used to train. I still remember some of the problems he had set which just looked impossible. Although I never met him there he really inspired me and I've always been drawn to his routes as many are unrepeated or have very few ascents.

Are you keen to get into first ascents in the future?

Yes very, I love trying unrepeated routes because there is still some mystery about them. The clear next step is to move towards establishing the routes myself. Unfortunately I currently don't have the time or rock to do this.

How did Hunger feel compared to other routes at your limit that you've done?

It's very hard to compare as the route is much steeper than the other hard routes I've done. The grade breakdown is a short 8b into a short 8b+. Which doesn't sound so bad, but what makes it hard is the 8b+ starts with a Font 8A boulder. I think the hardest part is just getting the weather to try it, before midgey season arrives!

9a+ or 9b next?

9a+ and soon!

Will's latest hard ticks have been documented by Paul Diffley of Hot Aches Productions, for a feature film called Whiz Kid.


This post has been read 16,847 times

Return to Latest News


Edinburgh born Will Bosi is one of the world's top climbers. At just 17 years of age, Will became the youngest Brit to have climbed 9a with his repeat of Rainshadow at Malham Cove. In 2018 he became first British male...

Will's Athlete Page 62 posts 34 videos



3 Apr, 2018

Couldn't happen to a nicer guy...

3 Apr, 2018

Inspiring news this Will. Keep up the good work! 

 

3 Apr, 2018

Impressive.. nice to see the more esoteric venues getting attention as well.

3 Apr, 2018

Great effort, looking forward to seeing what else he can do!

Side note, can we drop the whole "Hubble is 9a" thing? 

4 Apr, 2018

Thanks for the support, 

I would to comment on why I believe Hubble is 9a. In comparison to the other routes I have tried/done around this grade there is no doubt it is one of the hardest. I consider Hubble to be more of my style of climb and it took me almost the same amount of time to do as Rainshadow(Meant to be hard 9a). Last year I climbed 2 former 9as out in Spain, the first being Jungle Speed in only 4 attempts(this is a climb Daniel Woods has just sent and regraded at 9a). The second route was A-murete which took two days and is still debated between 8c+/9a, I took 8c+ as Rainshadow and Hubble still felt significantly harder. More locally Evolution 8c+ felt over a full grade easier, which I also sent last year in only three attempts. 

I believe even Ben Moon now takes 9a for Hubble and Adam Ondra has said "I believe that it isn't by any means easier than Action Directe, the world's first 9a established a year later" 

Will

More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email