IFSC Boulder World Cup: Munich - Report

The final round of the 2018 IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Munich, Germany last weekend. The ever-popular event was well attended by both competitors and spectators alike, with a crowd of 4000 filling the Olympic Stadium on the Saturday evening. Team GB's Emily Phillips made her first semi-final after an impressive performance in the qualifiers and placed 20th, while Matt Cousins just missed out on the semis in 21st place.

Janja Garnbret competing in Munich.  © Sytse van Slooten/IFSC
Janja Garnbret competing in Munich.
© Sytse van Slooten/IFSC

Results below highlights and finals videos (don't scroll if you don't want to know!!)

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Munich (GER) 2018

WOMEN bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 3T4z 4 4 4T4z 4 4
2 Miho Nonaka JPN 3T4z 5 4 4T4z 5 5
3 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 3T4z 7 4 4T4z 7 6
4 Fanny Gibert FRA 3T4z 4 4 1T4z 1 8
5 Katja Kadic SLO 2T4z 2 5 1T2z 1 5
6 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS 2T4z 2 7 0T3z 0 5
7 Futaba Ito JPN 2T4z 3 7
8 Karoline Sinnhuber AUT 2T4z 5 7
9 Petra Klingler SUI 2T4z 6 9
10 Mao Nakamura JPN 2T4z 6 11
11 Mei Kotake JPN 2T4z 6 12
12 Alma Bestvater GER 2T3z 3 5
13 Berit Schwaiger AUT 2T3z 4 5
14 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 2T3z 6 7
15 Mélanie Sandoz FRA 1T4z 1 7
16 Clementine Kaiser FRA 1T4z 1 8
16 Franziska Sterrer AUT 1T4z 1 8
18 Jessica Pilz AUT 1T4z 1 10
19 Nanako Kura JPN 1T3z 1 6
20 Emily Phillips GBR 1T2z 1 2
43 Jennifer Wood GBR Qual' 1T3z 1 7
79 Holly Toothill GBR Qual' 0T3z 0 3
83 Rhoslyn Frugtniet GBR Qual' 0T3z 0 5
Full results

MEN bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Gregor Vezonik SLO 2T4z 2 4 2T4z 2 13
2 Jernej Kruder SLO 3T4z 7 4 2T3z 9 7
3 Jakob Schubert AUT 3T4z 9 5 2T3z 9 11
4 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 3T4z 5 7 2T3z 11 13
5 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN 4T4z 11 6 2T2z 5 5
6 Mickael Mawem FRA 3T3z 3 3 1T2z 1 3
7 Kokoro Fujii JPN 2T4z 3 6
8 Rei Sugimoto JPN 2T4z 3 11
9 Keita Watabe JPN 2T4z 4 9
9 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2T4z 4 9
11 Alexander Averdunk GER 2T4z 5 7
12 Jan Hojer GER 2T4z 5 8
13 Taisei Ishimatsu JPN 1T4z 2 9
14 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 1T3z 1 5
14 Alfons Dornauer AUT 1T3z 1 5
16 Manuel Cornu FRA 1T3z 2 3
17 Tomoaki Takata JPN 1T3z 2 4
18 Gabriele Moroni ITA 1T3z 2 9
19 Yuki Hada JPN 1T3z 3 6
20 Yannick Flohé GER 1T3z 5 9
21 Matthew Cousins GBR Qual' 3T4z 8 16
35 Aidan Roberts GBR Qual' 1T3z 1 3
42 Nathan Phillips GBR Qual' 2T3z 7 9
77 William Ridal GBR Qual' 1T2z 3 5
79 Maxwell Ayrton GBR Qual' 1T2z 3 6
Full results

Although Jernej Kruder (SLO) guaranteed himself the overall ranking win by qualifying for the finals, the women's overall title was hotly contested by Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) and Miho Nonaka (JPN) and remained to be decided in the final. In order to win, Miho had to place above Akiyo. However, Janja Garnbret (SLO) was unbeatable in the final, flashing all 4 problems with ease to secure Gold. Despite the pressure of the overall title weighing on the Japanese climbers' minds, both performed well and topped all four problems, with Miho requiring two fewer attempts to place 2nd ahead of Akiyo and take her first overall World Cup title.

photo
Munich podium: Nonaka, Garnbret, Noguchi.
© Sytse van Slooten/IFSC

In the men's final, the competitors faced a tougher set of problems. Gregor Vezonik (SLO) stunned the crowd with a flash of the first problem, which subsequently proved too difficult for the rest of the field as nobody else managed to reach the zone hold. The competition remained tight, with two tops maximum for the top 5 competitors and attempts for zones splitting Jernej Kruder and Jakob Schubert in 2nd and 3rd place respectively. Overjoyed at his first World Cup win, Gregor was tearful both on the mats and the podium, on what was a very successful day for the Slovenian team.

photo
Munich podium: Kruder, Vezonik, Schubert.
© Sytse van Slooten/IFSC

The main event of 2018 - the Innsbruck World Championships - is the next stop on the IFSC calendar, on 6th-16th September.

Overall Rankings

Men

1. Jernej Kruder (SLO)

2. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)

3. Rei Sugimoto (JPN)

Men's overall podium: Narasaki, Kruder, Sugimoto.  © Sytse van Slooten/IFSC
Men's overall podium: Narasaki, Kruder, Sugimoto.
© Sytse van Slooten/IFSC

Women

1. Miho Nonaka (JPN)

2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

3. Fanny Gibert (FRA)

Women's overall podium: Noguchi, Nonaka, Gibert.  © Sytse van Slooten/IFSC
Women's overall podium: Noguchi, Nonaka, Gibert.
© Sytse van Slooten/IFSC


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20 Aug, 2018

Janga simply seems untouchable in boulders or lead. Shame she wasn't able to go to all the rounds. 

20 Aug, 2018

I don't know much about comps but it looks like Slovenia and Japan have got something right by looking at the rankings.

21 Aug, 2018

What happened to stasa gejo? Am I guessing she picked up an injury in the qualifiers?

21 Aug, 2018

I thought Miho's performance was particularly impressive. She went just after Akiyo on every boulder so she had that added pressure of knowing what she had to do. Despite that she climbed superbly, never appeared stressed, and just gone with job. And she was clearly made up when she completed that last boulder. Another emotional moment and great to see.

I also thought the British guys did pretty well despite not making the semis. The large and very strong 125 field means they actually placed pretty well and ahead of a number of excellent top climbers. Nathan finished ahead of Alex Khazanov, Nathaniel Coleman, Martin Stranik and GG Mondet. Slightly higher up Aiden was also ahead of Michael Piccolruaz and Alban Levier. And Matt Cousins was ahead Sean Bailey, Dmitrii Sharafutdinov and Alex Megos. With such a strong men's field I don't think the numbers necessarily do justice to their abilities.

The final was good but must be the only one that didn't feature any of the regulars: Alexey Rubtsov, Jongwon Chon or Tomoa Narasaki.

21 Aug, 2018

She didn't make semis and came 31st. She wasn't the only big name to miss the cut. Kyra Condie and Ashima Shiraishi also didn't make semis. All the more impressive is Emily Philips result.

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