UKC

2nd ascent of Mamichula (9b) for Seb Bouin

© Jan Novak

French climber Seb Bouin has made the second ascent of Adam Ondra's Mamichula (9b) (9b) at Oliana. The route links together No match for climb id:156379,"Papichulo" (9a+) and No match for climb id:149194,"Pachamama" (9a+) and at the time of his ascent, Ondra stated that it was hard for the grade. Bouin has climbed two other potential 9b's: No match for climb id:197829,"Chilam Balam" and his own route Les yeux plus gros que l'antre.

photo
Seb Bouin on Mamichula (9b) at Oliana
© Jan Novak

On his last trip to attempt the route, Bouin came agonisingly close and fell on the last hard moves before a decent rest. For his successful ascent he had his mother belay him, who is clearly a good luck charm!

Bouin has climbed many sport routes at the upper end of the grade scale, as well as climbing Font 8C with an ascent of Quoi de Neuf in Fontainebleau. In a previous interview with UKC, Bouin described what motivates him:

'Beautiful lines will always attract me. I'll always be ready to get involved in a project that makes me dream. Endurance is my strength for sure, but that's not what makes me choose a route. This is perhaps what allows me to do hard and long routes.'

Here's a short film featuring Seb:


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Seb is one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world with many hard routes including quite a few in the 9a-9b range under his belt including Mamichula, Chilam Balam and his own Les...

Seb's Athlete Page 45 posts 17 videos



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