Newsflash 9b First Ascent for Angela Eiter
Angela Eiter has made the first ascent of a new 9b route which she has named Madame Ching. If the grade is confirmed, this would be the hardest first ascent climbed by a woman.
Austrian climber Angy Eiter has redpointed Adam Ondra's Pure Dreaming in Arco, Italy. This was Angy's fifth 9a or harder. In 2017, she became the first woman to climb 9b with her ascent of La Planta de Shiva (9b) at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain.
© Bernie Ruech
Angy told UKC about the route: 'It demands power endurance. It goes through the big roof and ends with two big moves at the edge of the roof. At first, this sequence felt impossible for me (size 1.54m) but then I had a good beta that worked for me.'
Commenting on Angy's ascent, Adam Ondra said it was 'mindblowing' how she 'can jump between the distant holds on the top.'
Despite hot conditions, Angy managed to climb to the last hard moves on four occasions. Tiredness and low motivation were setting in on her final day of the trip and 'unexpectedly' she managed to climb the route on her final attempt before heading home.
Angy is undoubtedly one of the best sport and competition climbers of all time. She has won four World Championships, one European Championship and three World Cup seasons. Her other 9a redpoints include Era Vella at Margalef, Spain, Big Hammer at Pinswang, Austria and Hades at Götterwandl, Austria.
Comments
Angy told UKC about the route: 'It demands power endurance. It goes through the big roof and ends with two big moves at the edge of the roof. At first, this sequence felt impossible for me (size 1.54 cm) but then I had a good beta that worked for me.'
Good effort. Especially for someone that is only a little over half an inch in height... :)
Amazing effort..
This further evidence that there is no need to gender split competitive climbing? But instead do it on a physical factors such as height/weight. Breaking down the gender divisions where possible must be the best way to equality right...?