NEWSFLASH: 2019 IFSC World Championships Hachioji: Top 20 Combined Qualifiers

It's about to get even more exciting at the 2019 IFSC World Climbing Championships in Hachioji, Japan. Now that the three individual discipline rounds of Boulder, Lead and Speed have taken place, the 20 top-performing athletes across all three events have now been established. Rankings from each round are multiplied to calculate combined points (e.g. 1st x 2nd x 3rd = 6 points). Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey has qualified in 3rd place, putting herself in a strong position for making the top 7 and qualifying for possible Tokyo 2020 Olympic selection if she reaches the Combined final (top 8 from qualifying round.) Her teammate Will Bosi narrowly missed out, finishing in 25th place.

Julia Chanourdie (FRA) has qualified in 16th place.  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Julia Chanourdie (FRA) has qualified in 16th place.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Having climbed almost every day over the past week, the qualified athletes now have a further three rounds of qualifying in Boulder, Lead and Speed and potentially yet another three rounds if they make finals. Athletes ranking outside of the top 7 in Hachioji have further chances to qualify for Tokyo 2020 via the Olympic Qualifying Event in Toulouse in November (6 places per sex) or through IFSC Combined Continental Championships in 2020 (5 places per sex), Host Country places (1 place per sex) or Tripartite Commission Invitation (1 place per sex).

Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) and Ludovico Fossali (ITA) won Gold in the Speed finals today.

Stay tuned for IFSC commentator Charlie Boscoe's Combined report...

Read Charlie's UKC article about the Olympic qualification pathway.

IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019

Results

WOMEN combined

#NameNationLeadSpeedBoulderPoints
1Janja GarnbretSLO110
2Akiyo NoguchiJPN520
3Shauna Coxsey MBEGBR1430
4Futaba ItoJPN1170
5Miho NonakaJPN2150
6Mia KramplSLO2160
7Chaehyun SeoKOR4130
8Ievgeniia KazbekovaUKR1340
9Aleksandra RudzinskaPOL55470
10Di NiuCHN51360
11Lucka RakovecSLO9120
12Ai MoriJPN3280
13Anouck JaubertFRA45330
14Alannah YipCAN3070
15Nanako KuraJPN2860
16Julia ChanourdieFRA8380
17Jessica PilzAUT6300
18Petra KlinglerSUI23100
19Brooke RaboutouUSA12360
20Vita LukanSLO7190
Full results

MEN combined

#NameNationLeadSpeedBoulderPoints
1Tomoa NarasakiJPN410
2Adam OndraCZE160
3Jakob SchubertAUT320
4Kokoro FujiiJPN1340
5Kai HaradaJPN780
6Sean McCollCAN5130
7Alex MegosGER2200
8Ludovico FossaliITA61490
9Keita DohiJPN2450
10Rudolph RuanaUSA1570
11Meichi NarasakiJPN12120
12Yannick FlohéGER3330
13Jongwon ChonKOR21110
14Rishat KhaibullinKAZ45320
15Jan HojerGER27100
16Stefano GhisolfiITA6380
17Jernej KruderSLO2390
18Nathaniel ColemanUSA25150
19Mickael MawemFRA43190
20Michael PiccolruazITA32160
Full results


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17 Aug

This is a good illustration of why "speed" doesn't fit in with the other two.

The winner of the men's speed event came 49th and 61st in the other two, and the people who came 2nd, 3rd, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th didn't even make the top 20 overall.

Meanwhile, Ondra (1st and 6th in lead and boulder) came 47th in speed, and Schubert (2nd and 3rd) came 48th.

17 Aug

which means that speed won't have much effect on the overall result - yay!

and it'll have even less effect once speed is officially segregated in Paris in 2024

17 Aug

There is an argument to be made that the points system was designed to disadvantage the speed climbers.

17 Aug

As in?:

IOC: You need to include speed whether you like it or not.

IFSC: OK, if we must, but we'll invent a scoring system so that they do badly.

17 Aug

It's designed that people who only do well in one of the three disciplines does not do as well as someone who does well in two of the three disciplines. Anything else would be unfair.

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