IFSC World Championships Hachioji: Men's Combined Qualification, More Olympic Tickets

The men's Combined qualification round has selected the first 6 male athletes eligible for Tokyo 2020 Olympic quota places. Due to the fact that Japan has 4 athletes qualified for the Combined final but can only take 2 Olympic spots, all 4 athletes from other countries in the final plus the 9th and 10th place competitor are guaranteed an Olympic ticket for consideration by their National Olympic Committee. In a shock result, Adam Ondra (CZE) missed out on the final and an Olympic place after being scored down for stepping on a bolt in the Lead round. Initially qualifying in 8th place in the Combined ranking, he then dropped to 19th in lead after being scored down and finished 18th overall.

Alex Megos dominated the Combined qualifying round.  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Alex Megos dominated the Combined qualifying round.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The first 8 male Sport Climbing Olympians in Tokyo 2020 - pending selection by their respective NOCs - will be (final ranking order to be decided in Wednesday's final):

  • Alexander Megos (GER)
  • Jakob Schubert (AUT)
  • Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
  • Mickael Mawem (FRA)
  • The two highest-placing Japanese climbers, to be decided on Tuesday
  • Ludovico Fossali (ITA) (9th place)
  • Sean McColl (CAN) (10th place)

In a repeat of yesterday's women's result, having 4 Japanese athletes qualify for Combined finals means that Olympic quota places can be determined ahead of the finals. Due to these circumstances, with two Japanese athletes per sex earning a quota place in Hachioji, the 10th place competitors - Jessica Pilz and Sean McColl - also qualify for a quota place. Japan's host country quota place (1 athlete per sex) has to be filled and it can't be taken by an extra athlete of the same nationality if two have already qualified through the other pathways, so it is reallocated to the next best ranked athlete in Hachioji of another nationality.

If Japan chooses not to select the 2nd best Japanese athlete from Hachioji and prefers to wait until 2020 to decide and use their host place, then Jessica and Sean will be selected as the next highest ranked climbers in 10th. Alternatively, if they decide to take the two WCH places, then both climbers will still be selected through the host place as the next highest ranked climbers in 10th. Jessica and Sean will be officially selected within the next few weeks as the NOC has two weeks to decide on their selection and then unused quotas will be reallocated.

Japanese athletes Tomoa Narasaki, Kokoro Fujii, Kai Harada and Meichi Narasaki will fight for the top 2 Japanese rankings in Wednesday's final.

Stay tuned for a full debrief of the Combined qualifications and finals by IFSC commentator Charlie Boscoe.

Watch the women's Combined final tomorrow and the men's Combined final on Wednesday live on the IFSC YouTube channel from 8:20am or on BBC Sport.

IFSC Climbing World Championships Combined - Hachioji (JPN) 2019

Results

MEN combined

#NameNationQual
lead
Qual
boulder
Qual
speed
Points
1Alex MegosGER37+  1.4T4z 11 18.295  1717
2Jakob SchubertAUT36   2.3T4z 4 8 7.385  1560
3Tomoa NarasakiJPN31+  7.3T4z 11 66.352  4.112
4Kokoro FujiiJPN32+  5.2T4z 3 166.531  5.175
5Kai HaradaJPN30   13.3T4z 4 9 6.634  6.234
6Rishat KhaibullinKAZ27+  16.1T1z 4 3 5.863  1.272
7Meichi NarasakiJPN31   10.3T4z 11 86.776  8.400
8Mickael MawemFRA23+  18.2T3z 2 4 6.250  3.432
9Ludovico FossaliITA9   20.0T0z 0 0 5.889  2.800
10Sean McCollCAN34   3.1T2z 2 3 8.354  18810
11Yannick FlohéGER32+  4.1T3z 5 107.396  16896
12Nathaniel ColemanUSA31+  8.1T3z 2 8 7.024  10960
13Rudolph RuanaUSA32+  6.0T3z 0 177.287  121296
14Michael PiccolruazITA29+  15.1T3z 4 7 6.655  7.1365
15Keita DohiJPN30+  12.1T4z 6 8 7.124  111452
16Jernej KruderSLO29+  14.2T3z 7 5 7.295  131638
17Jan HojerGER30+  11.2T3z 12 68.357  192090
18Adam OndraCZE10   19.3T3z 12 69.000  202280
19Stefano GhisolfiITA31+  9.0T2z 0 4 7.347  142394
20Jongwon ChonKOR25+  17.1T2z 2 4 6.884  9.2448
Full results


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19 Aug

Poor Adam, what's he path now? Toulouse?

19 Aug

According to Charlies article only the top 20 ranked athletes in the 2019 combined world cup standings will be invited. At the moment Adam Ondra isn't showing in the top 20 on the IFSC website, presumably as he hasn't competed in any speed world cups?

I could be well off the mark here as this isn't exactly straight forward.

To get to Toulouse Adam needs some speed points from the World Cups, as he's currently not on the Combined scoreboard at the moment. He needs to make top 20 to be invited to Toulouse and it's not looking great at the moment. Will Bosi will likely get a place though!

After that, he needs to be the highest placing athlete in the European Combined Championships next year who hasn't already got a ticket.

Adam did Speed in Chamonix but placed 63rd. That's the only Speed event he's done so far this season aside from Hachioji.

19 Aug

There only appears to be one more Speed WC, in Xiamen. So he either has to do that to get a (hopefully good enough) combined ranking, or be the best placed not yet qualified competitor in the European Championship?

(Or appeal successfully against the foot-on-bolt ruling?)

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