Loading Notifications...

Louis Left (Font 8B) for 15-year-old Leo Skinner

© Jacob Martin

15-year-old Leo Skinner has climbed Louis Left, a Font 8B at Bacon Hole on the Gower in South Wales. It was first climbed by Liam Fyfe in 2014 and had only seen one repeat from Eliot Stephens until Leo's.

He first started working on the problem in 2017, figuring out some good beta for the crux, although the following year he had unfortunately grown too much and had to start from scratch.

Leo told UKC: 'The climb is very powerful but subtle all at once, due to all the handholds and footholds being pretty bad, so getting any body-positions slightly wrong results in falling off.'

Leo's is the 3rd ascent of Louis Left  © Jacob Martin
Leo's is the 3rd ascent of Louis Left
© Jacob Martin

At 18 moves long, it's a tricky link!  © Jacob Martin
At 18 moves long, it's a tricky link!
© Jacob Martin

Refining his beta this year, Leo realised that it was much harder linking sections together than he anticipated, despite finding the individual moves quite easy. Leo's method is about 18 moves long, without any rests:

'I had to focus on training power endurance to not be too tired on the last bit. It's mainly tiny sharp crimps but the crux revolves around a bad slopey pinch which I had to have good conditions to use. The session before I climbed it I was feeling a lot better and the conditions were better than the day I did climb it, but I caught some of the holds wrong which caused me to power out on the last hard move.'

He came back the following week and whilst the start of his session didn't go to plan, he managed to pull it out of the bag.

Leo has been on an upward trajectory for a few years now; when he was 13 he climbed his first Font 8A and then last year his first 8A+. This was his first 8B. His plans for the future include finishing off some other climbs in his local area and then heading further afield. Not to mention the never-ending quest to become stronger for next year!

This post has been read 5,327 times

Return to Latest News

Leo Skinner is an emerging young talent on the British Bouldering scene. At the age of 13, he climbed his first Font 8A and has been on an upward trajectory ever since, climbing his first Font 8B when he was 15.

Leo's Athlete Page

Support UKC

We need your help.

UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. So far, all we've asked of you is that you visit and interact with the site but we are in uncertain times. We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. The site will continue to be mainly funded by a subtle level of outdoor-only advertising but we now need extra support to ensure we can continue to provide the UKC that we all know and love.

You can help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts

13 Sep, 2019

That's class Leo. Knew u were going to do big things watching u in the barn. Keep it up mate.

15 Sep, 2019

Great stuff fella. Cracking tune in the cid to boot 👍

Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest