UKC

Adam Ondra repeats Qui - 23 year old 9a+Video

© Adam Ondra

Late last month, Adam Ondra repeated a route that was first climbed in 1996 and had seen no second ascent. The line in question is Qui at Geisterschmiedwand in Austria, climbed by Stefan Fürst. Ondra had been attempting the line himself for over ten years and considered it somewhat of a bogey route.

Ondra was taking a break from his extensive Olympic training and wrote: 'I believe it was one of the hardest routes in the world at that time and Stefan was there to belay me on the ascent. Before the World Cup in Kranj, I took advantage of going outdoors for a few days as the short term goal was only lead - and for lead, it makes sense to sport climb outdoors as a small part of the preparation. And I am immensely glad I decided to do so.'

Fürst's ascent took him roughly sixty days, which he describes as 'a tough fight.' He would attempt the route five days a week, in the morning and evening and throughout rain, storms and direct sun. Ondra believes that after some hold breakages, the route's grade is around 9a+.


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Born in the Czech Republic, Adam Ondra has built up a decorated career since his early competitions, winning his first World Championships medal in 2009 in lead climbing. He was a favourite for Tokyo 2020 gold, but an...

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