UKC

Third Ascent of East Coker 8B by Jack Palmieri

© Jack Palmieri

Jack Palmieri has made the third ascent of East Coker (f8B+) 8B at Parisella's Cave in North Wales. The line - first climbed by Chris Davies around 14 years ago - links Crucial Times (V12) into Trigger Cut (V10).​​​​​ Initially graded at 8B/+, an easier method emerged on the Crucial Times sit-start, despite the floor dropping a little. Alex Megos made the second ascent in 2016.

Jack on Isles of Wonder 8B.  © Jack Palmieri
Jack on Isles of Wonder 8B.
© Jack Palmieri

Jack told UKC:

'I started trying it a couple of weeks back when I first did the initial boulder problem - Crucial Times. I'd not been to the cave for nearly a year and was rained off in the hills one day when a friend dragged me back. In the end I was glad as I felt better on the things I'd left behind. I was mega happy to do Crucial Times as it is I guess quite historic in bouldering terms, featured in Stick It and now regarded as the first 8th-grade boulder in Wales.'

After doing Crucial Times, Jack began trying to piece together an unclimbed section of the cave on his visits and dabbled on East Coker. He returned with one goal in mind. He commented:

'Yesterday I went over and focused entirely on East Coker. I got it done but not without a fight. It caps off a nice start to the year for me having previously enjoyed some nice boulders in the hills, the highlight being climbing Isles of Wonder 8B.'

Jack has only one individual line to complete the Cave, and a few link-ups.


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Jack Palmieri is one of the UK's strongest boulderers, with ascents up to 8B+. Jack has climbed nearly all of the existing logical lines in Parisella's Cave, North Wales. He is also a GB Climbing Team Coach.

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