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Action Directe 9a by Mélissa le NevéNewsflash

© Fabi Buhl

French climber Mélissa le Nevé has ticked the classic Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura, Germany. This is her first route of the grade and the first female ascent of Wolfgang Güllich's famous line, which he climbed in 1991.

The line involves dynamic climbing between mono pockets and two-finger pockets on steep ground, with 5 bolts of intense climbing. It is generally regarded as the world's first 9a and was a six-year long-term goal for Mélissa.

Action directe 💚. Wolfgang Güllich. 9a. - The classic. The legend. The first. ... What a journey ... what an inspiring person... what a fight... but also "une histoire d'amour"... everything I searched in climbing. I was hoping this moment wiIl arrive for ages. Never I would have imagined how emotional it would be to clip the anchor. I totally fell in love with the process, to solve the puzzle and unlock this jump. So obsessed that it thought me patience. Years of commitment, ups and downs, hope and many doubts. It would never has been possible alone. The frankenjura community welcomed me with an open heart and I'm so thankful for it. The support I received from Fabian and my friends was the light on this journey ✨ Those magical moments in the forest that fulfilled my heart for 6 years. It was my dream and became @guillaumelevernier 's one. He gave me his full support with a genius training plan. Sharing this goal and seeing his motivation helped me to become self confident, to be persistent, and finally give it all in the moment. • 📸 @fabi_buhl , the multiple talented amazing person I'm lucky to share my life with. Also thank you and Andy for the countless hours we spend in the wood ! 🌳 Love #frankenjura and all the people who shared a part of this crazy journey 🙏 @bock.markus who helped me to understand the jump, @dirk.uhlig @laylazz_ @matilda_soderlund @dorokara @f.sattelberger @frank_kretschmann @alexander.nehls @krauss1971 @christianbindhammer @gejostasa @ballisbrain @norbert__sandner @hanneshuch @sammydahlman @sarah.kampf @dbwho @white_van_media @chiara_hanke @christoph_hanke @moritz.perwitzschky @juliansoehnlein @eline_lemenestrel @ninacaprez @moritzwelt_climbing @lenaherrm @_felixfelicius_ @alexandermegos @jenya_kazbekova @dickikorb and everybody I forgot to mention.. • •Massive thanks to my sponsors who helped me so much on this journey @fiveten_official @adidasterrex @arkose.climbing @team_edelrid @deuter • •Believe in yourself, that's what counts 💚 #bethbyarkose #arkose #edelrid #team_edelrid #climbgreen #livewithoutlimits #adidas #climbing

A post shared by Melissa Le Nevé (@melissaleneve) on

Earlier this month, Mélissa redpointed Christian Bindhammer's Bionic Commando 8c+ at Jesuswand in Bavaria.

Mélissa is a former competitor on the IFSC Boulder World Cup circuit. She retired in 2016 after placing 3rd in the 2016 overall Boulder World Cup rankings. That same year, she ticked La Cicatrice d L'Ohm 8B in Fontainebleau.

Stay tuned for more information...


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21 May, 2020

She's not wasted any time! Must have been doing a lot of training during lockdown. I bet it would feel great to come out of lockdown and do a 9a.

21 May, 2020

That is brilliant, what a route. She’s been training very hard from following her instagram posts over the past year. Thoroughly deserved.

22 May, 2020

Awesome news!

I'm curious though - the picture seems to show Melissa using a pinch for the first dyno instead of the mono used by other ascentionists?

22 May, 2020

She was in lockdown with her partner in Bavaria, and climbing was never banned here as long as you didn't travel unnecessarily - i.e. very local crags only - and climbed with somebody from your own household. Travel restrictions have been lifted in the last two weeks, making it ok for them to drive from the Allgäu to the Frankenjura

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