UKC

Post-Lockdown Lowdown - Ascents from Around the World

© Adam Ondra

Throughout the lockdown period, we took the unprecedented step of not reporting on ascents from around the world. We felt that it sent an unclear message in a time when people needed clarity. Different countries came out of lockdown at different times - or didn't experience lockdown at all, in the case of Sweden - so climbing has been taking place. We've been keeping an eye on things and have a roundup of the top ascents below.

People have been leaving lockdown on surprisingly good form so far. All that fingerboarding and core must have been worth it....

Barbara Zangerl repeats Unleashed 8c+ and Instructor 8c+/9a in Vorarlberg

Over in Austria, Barbara Zangerl set to work on Unleashed (8c+) in Voralberg. Zangerl attempted Unleashed ground-up, describing it as 'a good learning process' and 'even more rewarding' as a result.

Next up on her list was Instructor; an 8c/9a first climbed by Jacopo Larcher last year. The line is 45m and very steep. Zangerl took around 17 attempts over 7 days to tick the line.

Zangerl has been at the top of hard sport and trad climbing for a decade now with many high 8's on her CV, as well as hard trad routes like Prinzip Hoffnung and impressive big walls such as Magic Mushroom and Zodiac on El Capitan.

Adam Ondra repeats Iceberg 8C and climbs Bohemian Rhapsody 9a+

Ondra wasted no time whatsoever when lockdown ended in the Czech Republic. Showing us his appetite for small, limestone boulder problem link ups is still as strong as ever, he set to work repeating Martin Stranik's Iceberg (Font 8C)

Shortly after, Ondra tied in and climbed another link up at Roviště. The route, as shown in the video below, climbs the hardest sections of an 8b+, 8c+ and an 8b. Ondra named the route Bohemian Rhapsody.

Matilda Söderland ticks Font 8B

Spending her first spring in Sweden for many years, Matilda Söderland has ticked Armstrong Assis, a Font 8B at Nockeby near Stockholm. The problem is Söderland's first of the grade and makes her one of the few women to have ticked 9a and Font 8B.

Armstrong Assis took her 9 sessions in total, presumably due to a lack of skin. The problem consists of a lot of crimping on crystals and on her successful attempt, she climbed it with taped up skin and splits on four fingers!

Some of the key features of the battle with Armstrong assis (8B); two finger crimping on crystals, falling off the last move (6 times!), contemplating on how many more tries I can give before my skin is completely wrecked, lots of tape, splits... 😆 On a more serious note. This month I was supposed to be in Switzerland for my first project and goal of the year. Obviously I'm still in Stockholm and we've been able to keep climbing outside here. Before this season I had bouldered outside a handful of times (but I do it a lot in my training indoors ofc). It's been super rewarding to discover the bouldering in my home area and also to experience the process of a bouldering project (quite different from sport climbing I would say). Armstrong assis took me 9 sessions in total, I fell on the last move so many times I started doubting that I was capable of sending it haha - then, with taper up skin and splits on 4 fingers, it suddenly happened. So happy 🤩 Hopefully a little video is coming soon! Thanks to my coach @melissaleneve for your dedication and psyche, it's so cool to be able to share this process with you! Can't wait for what's next! Stay safe everyone 🤍

A post shared by MATILDA SÖDERLUND (@matilda_soderlund) on

Rare ascent of Weiße Rose

At Schleierwasserfall in Austria, Jakob Schubert made the 3rd ascent of Weiße Rose, an Alex Huber 9a from 1994 that's only been repeated by Adam Ondra. Over in the Zillertal Valley, Schubert also added a new 9a which he called Walk the Line.

First Ascent spree by Jernej Kruder

Slovenian athlete Jernej Kruder has been focusing on developing a crag close to home in Celje. He made the first ascent of Peščena ura 9a, and also added 14 other new routes ranging from 7c-8c+...all in the space of a few days after Slovenia's lockdown ended.

Projects are falling down. This time: "Peščena ura" ⏳ 9a, First Ascent Here's also my complete tick list from past days: - 7c Sreča na vrvici, Planjava 300 meters, - 7c+ Biokill, Bohinjska Bela, - 8a Karantena ilegal, Golobove pecine, - 8a Jera je bunka, Janez jo tunka, Bitnje, - 8a Ekosistem, Bohinjska Bela, - 8a+ Space man, Sivnica, - 8a+ FB Familija, Zalog, - 8b Pr pizd urezan, Golobove pecine, - 8b After eight, Golobove pecine, - 8b Na klancu, Golobove pecine, - 8b+ Dreku focn, Golobove pecine, - 8b+ Zlati rez, Golobove pecine, - 8c Rigor mortis, Bitnje second GO, - 8c+ Privid, Bohinjska Bela, - 9a Peščena ura, Sopota. ___ Most of these routes got FA from me 😁. Specifically this route is something special. I bolted this line years ago and there was no chance I could do the starting crux. That's why I rebolted the line few years ago and In time was born. Original line was still waiting for FA, until last year I finally unlocked the starting boulder problem. The current situation put me into this home-crag game and I finally realized my dreams. A couple I met today at the crag said, that today energies are right and that I should send my project 😁. That's exactly what happened 🤞🏻💪🏻. ____________________ 📸: @martin_z_orko ____________________ @scarpaspa @ocun.climbing @vibram @snowmonkey

A post shared by Jernej Kruder (@kruderjernej) on

Melissa Le Nevé ticks 8c+ in Jesuswand, Germany

Melissa Le Nevé has spent some time climbing at Jesuswand in Bavaria where she ticked the Christian Bindhammer power endurance testpiece, Bionic Commando.

Chimichanga, Coal Creek Canyon

Both Brooke Raboutou and Alex Puccio have been visiting Coal Creek Canyon near Boulder, Colorado. Raboutou ticked Chimichanga (Font 8B) and Puccio climbed the same line but from a 'super low' start, which adds four moves of Font 7B+/7C into the 8B and bumps the grade to 8B+. This was Puccio's sixth of the grade. She also added Muscle Car Light (Font 8B), Jeremiah Low (Font 8B) and Get Laid Diabolical (Font 8B) to her CV.

First Four 8c's for 18-year-old Martina Demmel

In the Frankenjura, Martina Demmel burst out of lockdown with a flurry of hard ascents. She climbed four 8cs having never ticked the grade before and managed one of them, Roof Warrior, on her second attempt. Demmel also ticked several 8b+'s and will be spending more time in the 'Jura in the coming weeks.

💥During the next days, I tried to test myself whether I'm capaple of climbing this grade in different terrain as well🙈. Big surprise was defintely the ascent of the steep "Roof Warrior" [8c] and its little brother "Cross the universe" [8b+] both within 2 tries🤯🤩🤩. Biggest thanks to @kvn_schtz for all the kneebar tricks and opening the 2nd one which is such a beautiful endurance climb with around 65 moves crossing the whole roof🤗🙏. Two days later, I finally went back at Rottachberg to get some pumped forearms or hopefully not...😜🙃 Pretty happy about ticking the most obvious line there called "King of the Bongo" [8c] in my 3rd go😍 after falling after the crux in the 2nd one because of a pretty stupid beta😅. But the supposed to be easier right exit "Basic Bongo" [8b+] felt so much harder because of adding 14 continous moves after the same crimpy crux... mentally it was definitely pretty frustrating always falling lower over 4 days than on the first day while sending "King..."😤🤔. And then during the send everything felt soo damn effortless that you're really asking yourself what the shit you've done wrong the days before...😂🤷‍♀️ 11 tries later, I found myself clipping the chains of this resistance beast as well!🔥 New projects are already waiting and the psych is unstoppable!!!💥😍 Thanks once again to @kvn_schtz @martinfeistl for the send belays and all the great support!🤗 1st 📸: thx @moritzwelt_climbing for capturing my happy face after the crux in "Odd fellows" 😇😝 2nd 📸: @kvn_schtz being totally exhausted after sending "Roof Warrior" and having ten pretty intense climbing days already in the bones😴🤪 #frankenjura#universum#roofwarrior#oddfellows#happyface#rottachberg#kingofthebongo#basicbongo#quicksends#dontknowwhatsmystyle#bestsendbelayer#homecragging#makethebestoutofit#psycheishigh#rainyrestday#weggedemmelt#formiert#weltwunder#gripismorethanjustpower#mantleclimbing#bleauboulderwear#rafiki#rafikiclimbing#fingerpocket#lasportiva#dowhatyoulove 💚

A post shared by ʍaʀtɨռa🦋🌸 (@martinademmel) on


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19 May, 2020

No trad/alpine?

19 May, 2020

Wow, looks like people have been training hard during their respective lockdowns. I've learnt to make amazing donuts, so I doubt I'll be back crushing my 4s and 5s just yet.

19 May, 2020

Would never have recognised Brooke R; strange to see her no longer a stroppy nine-year-old. I suppose that's the way it works.

jcm

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