Aidan Roberts has climbed his long-term project at the Lad Stones, a sit-start to Man Power (f8A) (Font 8A) which he has named Superpower. He has tentatively graded the problem Font 8C/+, which if confirmed, would make it the hardest problem in the UK.
Four years ago, Aidan climbed Man Power and saw then that the uncompleted sit-start was 'where the main quality layed.' Since then, he has been working on the sit-start sporadically, before climbing it last week during his 9th session. Aidan described how the problem is a difficult one to work:
'The holds are small to the extent that you get very few attempts before your skin and fingers throw in the towel. For me, it was only ever a maximum of 10 tries if I was lucky and my skin is generally pretty hard wearing.'
Described by Dan Varian (who is no slouch) as 'the hardest problem in the UK of its style,' climbing the problem relies on finger strength and body tension, something Aidan and Dan have in abundance. According to Aidan, 'there's few boulders that feel as basic' and the minimalism of the boulder appealed greatly: 'It takes a very striking and direct line up a blank face, which is relatively rare amongst the featured rock of the Lake District.'
Spending so long on a project is rare for Aidan, who quite frequently finds himself on top of 8B+/8C boulder problems after noticeably short time periods. In 2019, he climbed Jade (Font 8B+) in Rocky Mountain National Park on his 3rd attempt. More recently, he ticked pretty much all of Badger Cove in the Peak District (including Dan Varian's Dandelion Mind (f8B) (Font 8B) and Bewilderness (f8B+) (Font 8B+)) in a single session. The following day, he climbed Superman Sit Start (f8B+) (Font 8B+), again in a session.
In between repeating the hardest problems in the country, he has been adding his own. At Trowbarrow, he made quick work of a project which he named Outliers (f8C) and graded it Font 8C.
With all that in context, Aidan has stuck his neck out an put a '/+' on the end of Superpower. He explained his reasoning:
'Regarding difficulty, I've proposed 8C/+. I'm not such a fan of a slash grade but in this scenario, I feel as though I'm perhaps a little inexperienced trying climbs of this difficulty to cast an accurate judgement. I know in the past I've taken trips abroad and climbed up to 8C before returning home and trying this and not feeling close to linking the sequence. By this logic, it seemed obvious that it should sit a level higher seeing as though it also suits me perfectly too.
'That being said, this is referencing grades abroad. Traditionally, in my opinion, there's been a slight disparity between the Lake District and the rest of the UK and then from the UK to other areas of the world, so for me, it is tough to understand what to reference. Whether to maintain consistency of the area or try to normalise the system a little. I think I currently sit in limbo between the 2 and am doing my best to grade things as honestly as I can. I have no doubt I'll make some mistakes along the way but perhaps it'll just be my pride which takes the hit on that one.'
Aidan also climbed another project just over the hill in the Coppermines. The problem is the sit-start to the existing Copperline (stand) (f8A+) (8A+) and he has given it the grade of Font 8B+ and a hard one at that. He got shown the stand mid-summer by Dan Varian and climbed it shortly afterwards. He then waited for cooler temperatures for the sit-start.
'The real quality comes from the sit with physical compression on slopey edges and pinches. The sit adds about 3 hand moves and plenty of foot moves to create a 6 move boulder straight up the middle of the face. The quality of the climbing is incredible, and I think likely the most pleasant of my recent projects as I understand that not everyone enjoys a small incut edge! I completed this on my 4th session though had a full sequence change in the middle which unlocked it for me.'
Aidan seems to be delving deeper into the world of projecting, describing it as a 'satisfying game.' After his recent flurry of hard ascent and new-found excitement for putting time into projects, it's probably safe to say Aidan will be pushing the standards of UK bouldering even further in the near future.
Comments
What a WAD! Beast!