UKC

New 8C+ for Aidan Roberts

© Sam Pratt

Aidan Roberts has made the first ascent of The Lion's Share, 8C+, at Brione, Switzerland. 

The Lion's Share adds yet another top-end boulder to the wall where Aidan established Vecchio Leone sds (f8C+), as well as his 8C boulder, Everything the Light Touches. Aidan has said that he thinks this new boulder is the hardest of the three.

Aidan described The Lion's Share, as 'varied and complete', comprising 'slow and tensiony moves on awful crimps', that lead to 'slopier features and an unlikely foot walk before a very powerful slap' to finish, the slap in question being the one move boulder, Vecchio Brione (f7B)

Sharing news of the ascent on instagram, Aidan said:

'One which I was able to climb near the start of my trip. An old project, standing rather obviously on the Vecchio wall'.

'This wall was in fact my first introduction to Ticino. At the time there were three obvious projects left unclimbed. Each trip since then (firstly one year ago in Spring, Autumn, and now again) I had main objectives lying elsewhere but always found time to dedicate some to these projects'.

'The first trip saw me climb 'Everything the Light Touches', the second saw me up 'Vecchio Sit' and now, to conclude the more obvious climbs on this wall, this final project'.

'Upon climbing each of these, the remainders always felt a little beyond me at that time so it has been satisfying to observe my progression in a physical sense but likely physiologically too'.

'Regarding the grade for The Lions Share, I think it felt the most difficult of the three mentioned above. Though perhaps suits me a little less well than Vecchio sit. Perhaps 8C+ feels fair for this one'.

With the end of Aidan's extended Swiss trip drawing near, it will be interesting to hear a further breakdown of his Swiss 'ticklist' in the coming weeks. Regardless, in The Lion's Share, Aidan has added yet another top-end boulder to his growing list of hard first ascents.


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Aidan has repeated hard problems around the world and added a few of his own - Isles of Wonder Sit Start 8C+, Superpower 8C/+, Railway 8C in Rock Mountain National Park...

Aidan's Athlete Page 33 posts 18 videos



26 Apr, 2023

Aiden is the type of guy to be so humble as to never suggest ground breaking grades, in this case 9A, for his own FAs. Same is somewhat true of Bosi. Though not uniquely a British trait I think our apologetic nature has something to do with it. Can't wait for 10years time when some of these lines start getting more repeats and the true grades come out.

I would quite enjoy an incredibly cocky climber to counterbalance all this infuriatingly woke, stoic, humble waddage we have at the moment. Bang up the world's first 9B boulder and say it was easier than his home board.

26 Apr, 2023

Do we think he meant to say that?

26 Apr, 2023

Much as I love a good bit of grade banter, I think Aidan's suggestions have been pretty on the money for the most part. His hard FAs have received a decent amount of attention and several of them have been repeated and confirmed e.g. Vecchio Leone SDS was repeated by Matt Fultz and confirmed at 8C+, same for Railway at 8C, and Everything the Light Touches has had a couple of repeats and suggestions at 8C which is in the same ball park as Aidan's 8C/+.

Anyway, enough of the boring stuff, looks like another cool addition from Aidan, and what a legacy on that boulder!

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