Serenata 8C by Will Bosi

© Band of Birds

Will Bosi has made the fourth ascent of Serenata 8C on Impossible Roof at  Roche Abbey. In June, Will repeated Tomahawk 8B+ - also on Impossible Roof - and immediately had his eye on the harder objective.

Will ticking his first UK 8C, Serenata.  © Band of Birds
Will ticking his first UK 8C, Serenata.
© Band of Birds

Serenata climbs the low start into Serenity and ends in Ned Feehally's Serenade extension, therefore creating a link of an~8B+ into ~7C+, to produce one of the UK's hardest problems, first climbed in 2015.

Following Mike Adam's first ascent, only Ned Feehally and Dawid Skoczylas had ticked the problem before Will's latest ascent.

Serenata is Will's second 8C boulder after climbing Practice of the Wild in Magic Wood, and his first in the UK. According to Will, Serenata was much more of a challenge and took multiple sessions.

Adding to the difficulty, Will sprained his ankle on the penultimate session, landing badly on the boulder underneath. He had to hobble out and was still bruised for the successful ascent. He told UKC:

'I'm really psyched to get this problem finished, especially as I hadn't climbed 8C in the UK before. With the boulder being only 30 minutes from my house I've been able to have quite a few sessions and really push myself on a boulder project, which has been a super cool experience.

Will Bosi on the fourth ascent of Serenata 8C.  © Band of Birds
Will Bosi on the fourth ascent of Serenata 8C.
© Band of Birds

'Although the line is an eliminate it climbs really nicely. On my last session I slipped on the last hard move, missed the mats and badly sprained my ankle. Luckily it healed quickly and I was able to come back this week and get it done.'

Conditions weren't ideal, though, as Will's manager Matt Bird explained:

'The wind was blowing the wrong direction yesterday so we got the full blast of the sewage plant, which in my opinion added half a grade for the spotters let alone Will.'

Earlier this year, Will completed two 8A+s at Griff's Buttress in Blackwell Dale and repeated Dan Varian's Bewilderness 8B+ at Badger Cove in just four attempts. Further afield and pre-COVID-19, Will climbed his first 9b with an ascent of La Capella in Siurana, Spain.


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5 Sep, 2020

Awesome stuff.

Noticed on the crag page there’s a yellow access box:

“These crags do not have agreed access. The landowner has concerns with climbing on his land, and any publicity about the crags, or an increase in use, will result in an immediate and enforced ban. “

is that still current?

7 Sep, 2020

This is quite interesting. Lately Alex Megos was posting more and more about how awesome the bouldering in Frankenjura is.

While at the same time it is super delicate with landowners over there! Bans are likely, therefor the agreement with local climbing authorities was to not publicise bouldering much...

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