In a busy week of UK news, there were some ascents which flew a little under the radar both at home and abroad...
Another new Font 8B+ by Aidan Roberts
Us editors at UKC need a red phone that connects us directly with Aidan. It seems like not a week goes by where he doesn't climb an impressive, sought-after project. His latest addition is at the Kentmere Boulders and tackles The Karma of Trees from a sit start. He has named the problem Tranquillitas and describes it as the'most unexpected' of his ascents this summer.
Aidan had tried the project several times over the years and only completed the crux move for the first time this year, which he believes is one of his hardest moves to date. The fingery problem weighs in at Font 8B+, but Aidan has explained that he believes aspirant ascentionists will need 8C level strength in their right hand - is it just me or has bouldering become quite specific...?
Tranquillitas- First ascent The last and perhaps my most unexpected of my projects this summer. The day after completing Superpower I tried my luck on this long standing project. I had few expectations as had tried only the week before, a couple of days after doing Copperline and not felt close at all. I knew I was climbing well at that point and one move still eluded me that session, a move followed by 2 low percentage precision moves. As a result, this ended up being perhaps the most surprised I've ever been to top a boulder out. I'd tried many times over the years to no avail, completing the crux move for the first time this year and considered it, for me, one of my hardest moves to date. In terms of difficulty, perhaps one of my more finger intensive sequences yet and whereas my other ascents this year were more basic and physical in nature, precision has a large part to play on this climb. I'll propose a very stern 8B+ based on the difficulty when everything is executed perfectly though I feel at least 8C level strength is likely needed in the right hand to make this accessible and avoid some extreme frustration. That being said, some more vertical reach could possibly make the sequence a little less physical. Regardless of numbers, perhaps one of my favourite faces of rock in the Lake District and well worth a visit. Thanks again to @samm_pratt for capturing the beauty of this area and climb.
First 8B by Mia Krampl
Olympic-qualified Slovenian athlete Mia Krampl has ticked her first 8B Wrestling with an Alligator at Austria's Maltatal in just two sessions.
Hyunbin Min Climbs New 9b in South Korea
South Korean Hyunbin Min has established the country's first 9b, calling the route Soul Rock Dance. Min used to be a regular on the competition circuit and won a Lead World Cup in 2014 and achieving a podium place as recently as 2013. The route took him 11 redpoint attempts over a period of 5 days.
The 31-year-old had previously climbed as hard as 9a+ with an ascent of Open Your Mind Direct at Santa Linya.
Another 9b for Jorge Diaz-Rullo
21-year-old Jorge Diaz Rullo has climbed Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat (9b) at La Cova de l'Ocell. This was the Spanish sport climber's 5th 9b. He completed the route after over 30 days of working the route and battling heat, rain, and even a robbery. He wrote on his Instagram 'It's never easy to climb something that is at your maximum level, but doing it has given me a lot of motivation!'
Chris Sharma climbed the route in 2015 and suggested 9b/+. It was repeated by Jakob Schubert who suggested hard 9a+ and then by Felipe Camargo who believed it to be 9b.
"El bon combat" 9b ✔️🔝 30+ days of work, almost 2 months living in the sector alone, stressed by the heat of summer, drenched by a ton of rain, one robbery, so many frustrations and the fear of fighting a losing battle... I'll never have the words to express this process ... But now I am happy to announce that the battle has finally come to an end and I am proud to say it was a battle worth fighting for 😭🔝 It's never easy to climb something that is at your maximum level especially when the route is your anti-style 😅 But doing it has given me a lot of motivation! ✊ Now I am sure that I can try harder things of my style for this route has mentally prepared me to dedicate time to them 😆 As for the grade of the route, it's always something I find hard to evaluate so I usually end up leaving it aside. Each climber has had a different opinion 🤔 @chris_sharma proposed 9b/+, @jakob.schubert lowered it to 9a+ and @felipe.camargo pointed it out to 9b. I appreciate all their opinions, but at the end of the day if it's a first ascent, it always going to cost you more time and effort and on the other hand, if you come well trained, in your best moment and with good conditions it might feel easier/less difficult. But for me, I think the most honest thing is to award it 9b, for some it could be less, and I don't rule that out (9a+/b) but it has cost me so much, it's my antistyle and the conditions did not help at all... It was truly, very difficult for me! So long story short, whatever the grade is, I'm just happy to have done it! 😃💥 Now it's time for a change of place. I will miss this place and all the people in the area! ❤️ Without any doubt, you can call upon me for whatever you need! You will see me again! ❤️ 📸 @mtnz.adri @e9clothing_official #E9clothing #E9team 👕👖 @scarpaspa #scarpaclimbing #Instinct 👢👌 @indoorwall_leganes #Venaescalar 🧗 @climbskinspain #whyclimbskin 👐🏼💫 @petzl_official #petzlteam 🔩✨ @mushroompads #MG #Crashpads 🍄🙌
Ying Yang 8b (450m) by Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella and Yannick Glatthard
Della Bordella and Schüpbach made the first free ascent of the route on the Gross Wellhorn in the Bernese Oberland region of Switzerland on 25 August, but on the following day Glatthard inverted and hit his head on the wall during a redpoint attempt. He escaped relatively unharmed, but it was nonetheless a 'close call'. A video of their climb has been released:
Sabotage 8c+ repeated by Jon Freeman
Neil Gresham's Malham 2016 extension to Predator 8b, Sabotage 8c+, has seen its first repeat by Jon Freeman. Alongside Steve McClure's completion of Neil's project to create Fixation, it's been a busy week at the Cove!
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by train and bike
Continuing Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse's recent eco-tour theme, Hannes Hohenwarter and Martin Sieberer have completed a 'Tyrolean Trad Trilogy' in Austria. The challenge consisted of three classic limestone trad routes, which the team wanted - and managed - to climb in three consecutive days: Locker vom Hocker (UIAA VIII) on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte (VIII-) in the Karwendel and Pumprisse (VII) in the Wilder Kaiser.
#TRILOGIE - The initial plan to #climb THE 3 #limestone #crack #climbing #classics in #tyrol came up years ago. Last week @_fu_zi_ and I were finally able to carry out the project and we climbed "Locker vom Hocker", "Tschechenplatte" & "Pumprisse" in 3 consecutive days #redpoint and by fair means (#bike & #train). It was an #awesome but quite #challenging #journey. You have to wait for the right moment to #attack. More infos soon. pic by: @christianpflanzeltphotography (1.pitch of Locker vom Hocker) Thx for the support dudes: @stefanfilzmoser & @gum_py . .. ... .. . @trekbikes_de.at.ch @vaudesport @salewa @scarpaspa @clifbar @lensecape #schüsselkar #klettern #karwendel #climbing #wilderkaiser #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #mountains #explore #adventure
VIDEO: Daniel Woods on Blade Runner (Font 8C)
Mellow have released the footage of Daniel Woods climbing Blade Runner (Font 8C) in Rocky Mountain National Park. The Giuliano Cameroni problem has now had four ascents in total. Watch the video below: