New 9b/+ in Italy for Stefano Ghisolfi

© Stefano Ghisolfi Collection/@sara_grip

Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of his project at Eremo di San Paolo near Arco, Italy. He has named the route Erebor and graded it 9b/+, making it the hardest climb in Italy.

The 27-year-old had been working on the project close to his home since the end of the first lockdown in Italy. It was the first route he had bolted and afterwards, he quickly realised the uphill task he had set himself:

'I immediately realised it was nearly impossible. After summer I started trying some attempts but only in the new year I was able to clip the chain, after falling at the last moves more than 10 times.'

On the grade, Ghisolfi stopped short of 9b+ and compared the route against Adam Ondra's Change at Flatanager and Alex Megos' Perfecto Mundo at Margalef, both of which he has climbed. He describes Erebor as his 'proudest first ascent' and is already looking forward to others repeating the route.

Watch our interview with Stefano from May 2020:

Ghisolfi made the first ascent of Italy's previous hardest, Lapsus (9b), in 2015. The route links together Severiano Scassa's classic 1993 test piece Noia (8c+) into Anaconda (8c). For the past few years, Ghisolfi has been working his way through 9bs and 9b+s. He has repeated Adam Ondra's One Slap (9b) in Arco, La Capella (9b) in Siurana and as previously mentioned, Change at Flatanger which he completed in September of 2020 after spending a month on the route.

This post has been read 6,178 times

Return to Latest News

Stefano is one of the world's top sport climbers and his list of hard routes include Adam Ondra's Change (9b) at Flatanger and Alex Megos' Perfecto Mundo (9b+) at...

Stefano's Athlete Page 16 posts 4 videos

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support - UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email