UKC

The Ticklist #38 Bouldering in Rocklands, Switzerland and the States

© Drew Ruana Collection

This week's ticklist features some elite bouldering from three different continents...

Timonov in Rocklands

Russian climber Vadim Timonov has continued his fantastic start to the Rocklands season by nabbing the second ascent of Dave Graham's Petrichor(Font 8C). Last week, the 29-year-old made a quick ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's The Finish Line (8C) and Fred Nicole's Amandla (8B+) on his first day.

See a video below of Dave Graham on the first ascent:

Simon Lorenzi on fire

Simon Lorenzi has been hard at work in Averstal (Magic Wood) and has climbed Daniel Woods' La Force Tranquille (Font 8C) and added a direct finish to Giuliano Cameroni's Power of Now, which he has graded Font 8C. La Force Tranquille took him five sessions and after battling with poor conditions he climbed it on his third attempt of the day, despite a 'sketchy and humid top out.' He finished the day with an ascent of Never Ending Story (Font 8B+) and Nothing Changes (Font 8A).

A few days later, the Belgian climber was struggling to find a method for Power of Now and changed his beta to climb the line more direct:

'Two sharp underclings in the base of the roof and jump directly into the crimp of the original version. Very hard physically and for the skin! It's 3 jumps in a row and that makes one of the craziest and most powerful boulder that I've ever done!'

Lorenzi has been in top form over the past year. In February, he established Soudain Seul, the long-standing sit start project to The Big Island in Fontainebleau. He graded the problem Font 9A.

Fifth Font 8C+ for Drew Ruana

Drew Ruana has climbed his fifth Font 8C+ by making the first ascent of Insomniac at Lincoln Lake, Colorado. The problem, Insomniac, begins with an 8 move Font 8B+ before a breather on a jug. It then heads into an established 8B+ called We Can Build You and a tricky finish over a lip.

The 22-year-old also climbed a new Font 8C on the same wall, naming it Kryptonite and describing it as training for Insomniac.

New ice route FA in Peru by Pou brothers

Basque brothers Eneko and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of the South face of  Huamashraju 5,350m in Peru's Cordillera Blanca, climbing "¡Viva Perú Carajo!" M7 / 80º / 600 m. The route is climbed entirely on ice and follows small ice tongues that cross the entire wall 'as if it were a spider's web'. The pair free climbed the line in alpine style in a non-stop attempt lasting 15 consecutive hours. 


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