Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi has made the second ascent of Alex Megos' Bibliographie, the world's second 9c. He is the third climber to reach the grade after Adam Ondra and Megos.
The 28-year-old had been working on the route throughout the summer and documenting his progress on his YouTube Channel. He is yet to comment on the grade and in a short comment on his Instagram, Ghisolfi wrote: 'PLEASE DON'T WAKE ME UP, like in every fairy tails last day was actually the best day. I'm crying.'
Ghisolfi's previous hardest climbs were Megos' Perfecto Mundo (9b+) at Margalef and Adam Ondra's Change (9b+) at Flatanger. He is also a six-time World Cup gold medal winner.
Megos first attempted the route back in 2017 and became more focused as he realised the route's difficulty. He has described the style of the route as being similar to its neighbour, Chris Sharma's Biographie, a steep face where the pockets are so small you have to crimp them.
Watch the documentary that follows Megos on the first ascent process:
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With detailed analysis of each and every move on the route, and close up footage of all of its holds, this film gives an excellent insight into what it takes to establish one of the hardest routes in the world.
We caught up with Stefano Ghisolfi late last year at Kendal Mountain Festival and talked to him about his early years in climbing, to his first foray into competition climbing, his rapid progression out on rock, and what lies in store for the...
Comments
Better than an Olympic medal?
I wonder if he had the choice of one or the other which he’d choose…
Obviously an Olympic medal because that would have proved that he is a better climber than Ondra and Megos.
I reckon I might be living for the first 10 at this rate. Respect.
That’s amazing, I didn’t realise he was that close. He only started working it this year didn’t he?
But not as good as that Spanish guy whose name I can't remember