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The Ticklist #51 Hard Bouldering and a Gristone Flash

© Siebe Vanhee Collection

This week's Ticklist has some hard bouldering ascents at home and abroad, along with a hard grit flash...

Molly Thompson-Smith climbs another Font 8B

Molly Thompson-Smith has climbed Flip Flopera (f8B) (Font 8B) on the Bowderstone, in the Lake District. She has spent time this year recovering from a finger injury but this didn't seem to slow her down - she climbed the 8B in a single session.

This was her 4th of the grade this year after ascents of Keen Roof at Raven Tor, Euro Low Roof in Little Cottonwood Canyon, and Steppenwolf in Magic Wood.

Off the Wagon Low (Font 8C+) Repeated

Simon Lorenzi has made the 5th ascent of Shawn Raboutou's Off the Wagon Low (Font 8C+) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. The problem was made famous by the 2006 film Dosage 3, which saw Chris Sharma and Dave Graham attempt the futuristic line. In 2012, Nalle Hukkataival made the first ascent and n 2018, Shawn Raboutou climbed the problem from a low start, adding a + to the 8C grade.

Lorenzi made headlines earlier in the year when he climbed the sit start to The Big Island in Fontainebleau, subsequently grading it Font 9A. Nico Pelorson suggested it could be 8C+ but only time will tell.

Gaia (E8 6c) Flashed 

Visiting Belgian climber has flashed Gaia (E8 6c) (E8 6c) at Black Rocks, Peak District. To our knowledge, the only other climbers to have flashed the line are Alec Honnold, Ryan Pasquill, and David Mason. Since arriving in the UK, he's also managed a rare ascent of Parthian Shot (E10 7a), possibly the third since the flake broke.


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26 Nov, 2021

That Gaia footage is pretty gripping. 🔥💪

26 Nov, 2021

You kinda forgot another dude flashing Gaia. This video even suggests he onsighted it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYbRNt4GjXEl

But: "The 23 year old Californian commented on 8a.nu after the ascent: "Not a true onsight since I've seen movies, but there was no chalk".

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-honnold-flashes-gaia-e8-6c.html

26 Nov, 2021

Doh! Of course…

26 Nov, 2021

Ryan Pasquill has flashed Gaia as well I think https://climbing-history.org/climber/137/ryan-pasquill

Have to say I don't envy you writing these, must be impossible to keep track of who's done what.

26 Nov, 2021

Thanks!

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