Adam Ondra Flashes The Ace, 8B

© Petr Chodura

Adam Ondra has become the first person to flash Jerry Moffatt's iconic boulder, The Ace (f8B), at Stanage Plantation.

The Ace, a low start to another of Moffatt's problems, the short and explosive classic The Joker (f8A), is one of Britain's most famous boulder problems, and has attracted some of the best climbers of the last two decades, including Ben Moon, Malcolm Smith, Jan Hojer, Will Bosi, and Aidan Roberts.

At Font 8B, Ondra's flash of The Ace is the hardest gritstone flash of all time.

A 'freak moment', Adam flashes The Ace, 8B  © Petr Chodura
A 'freak moment', Adam flashes The Ace, 8B
© Petr Chodura

Taking to instagram to share the news of the flash, Adam said:

'I have just come back from an intense week in Sheffield in the UK. A lot of exciting stuff was filmed, and you can look forward to quite a few exciting videos! [Including] flashing one of the last hard 'Jerry' problems, The Ace 8B on the grit at Stanage'.

According to, Adam described the ascent as a 'Freak moment! Executed just perfectly!' partly in thanks to beta from other climbers, including Will Bosi, who was there with Adam on the day, and who climbed The Ace in 2020. Adam also thanked 'the legend himself Jerry' and Magnus Midtbø for their support.

Adam's flash of The Ace becomes even more impressive when put into the wider context of the boulder, which took Moffatt - one of the best climbers of his generation - more than three years of persistent effort. Having climbed The Joker in 1996, it wasn't until the early 2000s that Moffatt finally made the first ascent of The Ace.

Adam celebrates with Jerry Moffatt and Magnus Midtbø  © Petr Chodura
Adam celebrates with Jerry Moffatt and Magnus Midtbø
© Petr Chodura

Speaking about the FA in Climber Magazine, Moffatt said:

'If the truth be known, it had been my goal for the last three years; either I'd just not been in good enough shape to try it, or the conditions were not right. As soon as I started trying The Ace everybody who had done The Joker was attempting it this way, which added to the pressure. My advantage was that I felt good on The Joker. If I could just get into the top moves feeling strong, I knew I could do it'.

'My sequence didn't feel right though and I was intrigued to find out about an alternative sequence Ben Moon had been trying. First chance I had I went straight back to the crag and tried his method. I hit the top second go but couldn't hold it. The friction wasn't good that day, but I returned in better conditions and got it done'.

Adam getting established on Careless Torque, 8A  © Adam Long
Adam getting established on Careless Torque, 8A
© Adam Long
Adam's short trip to Sheffield also featured crack climbing with Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, a visit to the 'infamous' School Room to try some of the of the most well-known board climbs in the world, a trip to Stoney Middleton, and an ascent of the Ron Fawcett classic, Careless Torque (f8A).

Adam up high on Careless Torque, 8A  © Adam Long
Adam up high on Careless Torque, 8A
© Adam Long

This post has been read 17,086 times

Return to Latest News

Born in the Czech Republic, Adam Ondra has built up a decorated career since his early competitions, winning his first World Championships medal in 2009 in lead climbing. He was a favourite for Tokyo 2020 gold, but an...

Adam's Athlete Page 133 posts 48 videos

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support - UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

When 8B isn't that hard anymore and 8A is approaching a rest

24 Jan

Shouldn't he be working Hubble and not pissing about bouldering?

24 Jan

he did, it was the first thing he went for on tuesday but it was wet

24 Jan

Isn't hubble a boulder problem with bolts anyway? 🙃

24 Jan

That's some effort. His views on the grade of TPS would be interesting.

More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email