UKC

Glencoe 'Classic Rock' Link-up for Ali Rose and Matt Rowbottom

© uistgr

Ali Rose and Matt Rowbottom have made a self-supported in-a-day link-up of the Glen Coe section of Ken Wilson's 'Classic Rock'.

Spurred on by an inalterable pizza reservation, they completed the link-up in just twelve hours and fifty-six minutes.

Getting excited that we might do it, on Archer Ridge, S  © Ali Rose
Getting excited that we might do it, on Archer Ridge, S
© Ali Rose

Just under three years ago, Ali completed the Cairngorms version of the challenge, where - along with Mark Chambers - he linked six routes and twenty-eight pitches of climbing in just under seventeen and a half hours, whilst travelling more than sixty kilometres on foot.

The Glen Coe version, however, was something that Ali had written off as improbable. That is, until Keri and Ben Wallace completed their own attempt at the round.

'I've been thinking of doing this ever since Mark and I did the Cairngorm version, but had originally written it off due to how hard I thought it would be to move quickly and safely in the gullies', Ali told us.

'Keri and Ben completing their round made me have another look and realise that it could be done relatively quickly in the right conditions'.

Converging walls pitch in The Chasm, VS  © Ali Rose
Converging walls pitch in The Chasm, VS
© Ali Rose

Last Friday, Ali and Matt decided to head out and see what they could make of the challenge: seven routes, fifty-three pitches, 3,000 metres of elevation, and twenty-three kilometres on foot.

'We went for a 3:30am start rather than Keri and Ben's 3:30pm, in the hope we could climb The Chasm (Summer) (VS) fast enough to be at North Face Route (S) and Agag's Groove (Summer) (VD) before any other teams showed up'.

Starting up Agag's just before 8am  © Ali Rose
Starting up Agag's just before 8am
© Ali Rose

'This worked pretty well for us as we were heading down with all the Buachaille Etive Mor routes done by 8:15am, and were headed for the road'.

'The only other things we did differently from them (other than not eating rice pudding and tatties!) was to descend Curved Ridge (Summer) (M) for a second time rather than go over the summit of Buachaille Etive Mor, and that there was no need for a drop bag of boots and axes below Bidean nam Bian'.

'Despite the amazing weather we only met one other team the whole day. We were having a rest below the scree slope going up to Church Door when we spotted them above. Perfect timing for us as there was no way we wanted a team above us, so it spurred us on a wee bit'.

Everyone's favourite move on Crypt Route, VD  © Ali Rose
Everyone's favourite move on Crypt Route, VD
© Ali Rose

'Such a great day with so much climbing, it only got really hot after in the afternoon as we were headed down off Bidean and towards Clachaig. I think we got lucky with cloud cover in the morning, and it's unlikely we would have got round in the next days heat'.

Matt in Clachaig Gully, S  © Ali Rose
Matt in Clachaig Gully, S
© Ali Rose

Too hot but glad to be finished!  © Ali Rose
Too hot but glad to be finished!
© Ali Rose

'No real issues on the day except the heat, and me heading for the wrong squeeze on Crypt Route (VD), despite having done it a few times'.

'We'd prebooked pizzas at Ardgour Ales for a mates birthday, so we were pretty committed to it being a sub 14hr day!'

For those interested in the route breakdown, it is as follows:

The Chasm (Summer) (VS) - 450m, 16 guidebook pitches.

North Face Route (S) - 220m, 8 guidebook pitches.

Agag's Groove (Summer) (VD) - 105m, 4 guidebook pitches.

The Long Crack (S) - 90m, 2 guidebook pitches.

Archer Ridge (S 4a) - 70m, 3 guidebook pitches.

Crypt Route (VD) - 135m, 4 guidebook pitches.

Clachaig Gully (Summer) (S) - 520m, 16 guidebook pitches.

You can see Ali and Mark's Cairngorm 'Classic Rock' link-up in the video below:

Kit list  © Ali Rose
Kit list
© Ali Rose


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27 Jun, 2023

Cheese and chorizo wraps are aid...

These big days out are really inspiring, so much so that I've no idea why I haven't done one?!

For those interested in what it entails I'd highly recommend listening to the interview Ali and Mark on Finlay Wild's 'Go Mountain Goats' podcast, which was recorded shortly after they did their Caingorm Classic Rock Challenge a few years ago.

https://www.gomountaingoats.com/podcast/bmqs14h45nt7sv8hj7v6mt12avsbwm

Good effort to Keri and Ben for having the vision to undertake the first Glen Coe Classic Rock Challenge too. Having done The Chasm, and heard all sorts of rumours about the Clachaig, it's not the sort of terrain you can rush on. They're not short routes either, being huge undertakings in their own right - let alone as an enchainment of seven other routes!!

Ali/Matt - congratulations to you too (obviously), both in terms of completing the challenge and getting back in time for the pizzas...

28 Jun, 2023

Thanks Rob. Someone good at running and comfortable soloing in that terrain could take a lot off our time. The "poor mans" Glen Coe Classic Rock link up (everything bar the gullies) is a really fun solo day for those not enamoured with the gullies. It makes sense to do the 4 munros (The 2 on Buachaille Etive Mor along with Sgreamach and Bidean nam Bian) along the way.

Its also worth mentioning that Malcolm Airey went out 4 days after Matt and I to do the same link up. He had support (Al docherty) for the Chasm and then headed for the rest solo. I think he would have been somewhere around the same time as us but bailed a few pitches up the Clachaig gully as he'd pushed a bit hard in the heat. Really impressed to see him charge through the rest and then make the decision pretty close to the end that he didn't have enough in the tank.

29 Jun, 2023

The dark horses of Lochaber.

Well done the boys!

30 Jun, 2023

This kind of stuff looks absolutely quality. Would love to give it or a reduced size one a go in the near future! Inspiring stuff!

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