UKC

Nina Caprez


About



Switzerland
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"Live only the life you want."

My passion for climbing started as soon as I stepped into my first real climbing shoes, I knew that this is my sport.

I grew up in the middle of the Swiss mountains in a valley called Prattigau. After finishing high school, finding no solid direction in normal life I decided to leave the "routine" and chose to continue my life as a climber. My desire to practice this sport with all its facets was so strong, that I was able to overcome all the obstacles that I came across to pursue my lifestyle.

Besides rockclimbing and mountaineering I also spent time competing. During this time, I learned a lot how I have to train and what I have to do, to become a stronger climber. This made me become an even stronger rock-climber, quickly making it possible for me to red-point my first 8b route.

After a while, I lost the motivation for competitions and I started to concentrate more and more on what was for me pure rockclimbing. I travelled all around the world and climbed on all kinds of rocks. From big wall climbing in Patagonia and Kyrgyzstan to boulder trips in Argentina, from deep water soloing in Thailand to sport climbing all around Europe and America. All these experiences and all these different styles of rock climbing gave me so much practice, that it made me the well rounded climber I am now.

Through all these experiences as a rock climber, I found my big challenge: I want to climb the hardest multi pitch routes in the world. To be able to climb a hard multi pitch route in one day, that is my goal and what I am searching for.

Routes like 'Ultime démence', 5 pitches 8a+, 'la Ramirole', 5 pitches 8b, 'Hotel Supramonte' 11 pitches 8b or 'Silbergeier' 6 pitches 8b+, are the most beautiful sucesses in my climbing life.

I love my 'non-system' life. To be able to decide myself how I will earn my money, where I will live, when I will get up in the morning. To do what I need to do to survive. And most importantly: to enjoy every single day, with the least amount of seriousness as possible and to climb to my very best!

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View the reviews and news from Nina's sponsors.

Best IFSC Results

This athlete has competed internationally


Latest News & Articles

News posts and Articles featuring Nina

Fri Night Vid Andrea

What pushes us further in sport? It's a question that professional climber Nina Caprez and photographer Jeremy Bernard found themselves asking at the height of their careers, and just when they became parents. Believing that the value of sport ...

Fri Night Vid WoGü - featuring Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat

In this week's Friday Night Video, Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat attempt Beat Kammerlander's WoGü in the spectacular Rätikon range of Switzerland. Named after the late Wolfgang Güllich, the route was opened by Kammerlander in 1997...

The Ticklist #5 - Céüse Sends, Alpine Jaunts and More...

In this week's ticklist, we've got a variety of sport, trad multipitch, alpine and bouldering ascents to inspire you ahead of the weekend...

Interview Perfect Partners #17 - Lynn Hill and Nina Caprez

In 1993 Lynn Hill made climbing history by becoming the first person to free climb The Nose on El Capitan,...

Video Neverending Story 8b+: Barbara Zangerl & Nina Caprez

In 2015, Austrian Barbara Zangerl and Swiss climber Nina Caprez made the third and fourth ascents of...

Video Nina Caprez - To Bolt Or Not To Be

In this short film, Nina Caprez recounts her story of attempting 'To Bolt or Not to Be' (8b+) at Smith Rock, Oregon. Jean...

News Divine providence by Nina Caprez

Nina Caprez has, together with her boyfriend, repeated the rarely free climbed 900m route Divine Providence on the Grand pilier...

News Nartanesi, 8c, by Nina Caprez

News Fri Ni Vid: Jonathan Siegrist & Nina Caprez - Verdon

Interview Nina Caprez - Silbergeier - Alpine 8b / +


Latest Reviews for Nina's Sponsors

Reviews from the UKC editorial team

Performance All-Rounder Climbing Shoes

If you're only going to buy one shoe for all your climbing, then make it an all-rounder. We check out six versatile models at the performance end of the market. 

Scarpa RS Pro WP-Y Kids Boots

With its forgiving fit, supportive and grippy sole, and quality nubuck upper, Scarpa's RS Pro WP-Y is a great boot for younger walkers. Apprentice reviewer Edith Bailey checks it out.

OTS 2025 - Our Best of the Show

The Outdoor Trade Show has just wrapped up, and after a few quiet years post-Covid, 2025 saw a strong showing for new ideas and interesting products. Here are our highlights of the show - the items our review team are going to be fighting over next...

Scarpa Instinct VS-R LV

Offering great all-around performance across a range of disciplines, with the crucial distinction of a narrower and lower volume fit,...

Scarpa Drago XT - One Drago to Rule Them All?

How do you make a great product even greater? This is something we were curious to find out, because both our...

Scarpa Rapid XT

With the Rapid XT, walking comfort may come first, but on-the-rock performance is a close second. This is a capable approach shoe that feels...

Scarpa Ribelle Run 2

The Ribelle Run 2.0 is a massive improvement over the original, says Rob Greenwood. Whilst marketed primarily as a running shoe, its solid...


Latest News from Nina's Sponsors

Announcements direct from manufacturers

The New Petzl WHISPER® Harness

The WHISPER® harness is perfect for climbers and mountaineers seeking minimal weight and maximum mobility. Its MATRYX® fabric ensures comfort, durability and compact design. A slim waist belt and leg loops provide freedom of movement, while fiv...

Arc'teryx Climb Academy returns to the Lake District: May 25th – 27th

Today, clinic tickets go on sale for Arc'teryx Climb Academy Lake District - May 25 – 27, 2024. Set in Great Langdale in the heart of the Lake District National Park, this boutique-styled Academy brings together...

CWIF 16-17th March 2024 - Registration now open!

Join us on Saturday 16th - Sunday 17th March, climb alongside some of the best climbers in the world on problems set by some of the world's best routesetters.

Scarpa Mescalito Mids - Save 35%

Save 35% and pick up a pair of comfortable, lightweight, three-season hiking boots for just £149! Get ready for...

Arc'teryx Climbing Academy promises its biggest event yet in 2023

The Arc'teryx Academy brings its hugely successful Arc'teryx Climbing Academy event to...

SCARPA steps forward to sponsor mountain running events

SCARPA has signed up as title sponsor of the Great Lakeland 3Day for the next three editions...

Outside Deals - Save up to 30% on Scarpa Mojito & DMM Trance harness

The latest deals from Outside are on DMM Trance harness - Save 24% and...


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