While there's been plenty of top-end British ascents this past week, it's a been a quieter week for interesting ascents abroad. Here's a round-up of some recent sport and multi-pitch action...
Sang Neuf 9a by Julia Chanourdie
Olympic-qualified French climber Julia Chanourdie has ticked Sang Neuf at Pierrot Beach in the Vercors, France. This is the second female ascent of the line after Anak Verhoeven's redpoint in 2017. Julia is reportedly working on the extension, Sweet Neuf 9a+, which was first climbed by Anak in 2017.
9a FA by Tom Bolger in Margalef
British expat living in Catalonia, Tom Bolger, has made the first ascent of a link-up on Margalef's Raco de la Finestra wall, joining the first half of Perfecto Mundo 9b and Victimes del Passat 8c, creating Perfecto Passat R2 9a. According to Tom, the line takes in 'some of the best climbing to be had in Margalef.'
8c multipitch by the Pou Brothers in the Picos
Basque brothers Eneko and Iker Pou and Argentine climber Kico Cerdá have made the first free ascent of Rayu 8c (5.14b)/ 600m (1968,5ft) on the south face of the Peña Santa de Castilla in the Picos de Europa, which neighbours their old haunt and the site of their famous multipitch route Orbayu 8c, the Naranjo de Bulnes. The trio redpointed the whole route in a 12.5 hour non-stop attempt from the ground to the summit. The route's name means 'lightning' in local dialect and refers to a natural white streak which zigzags down the face.
First Free ascent of Ellipsis by Jernej Kruder
Slovenian overall Boulder World Cup winner Jernej Kruder has made the first free ascent of his line Ellipsis 8b+ on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea in the Julian Alps, Italy. The five-pitch line is a hybrid of trad and sport, with some bolts and pitons in key places. Jernej established the route in 2018 alongside Gašper Pintar and David Debeljak.
Scottish Trad FAs and Repeats by Robbie Phillips and Dave MacLeod
Robbie Phillips recently established Nosferatu E8 6c at Loch Duntelchaig, which Dave MacLeod repeated this week. The line climbs a steep overhanging face before finishing up an arête.
Comments