Adam Ondra and Rustam Gelmanov have both climbed 9a's lately. For Adam, this is pretty much business as usual, whereas it is more rare for Rustam who is best known as a World Cup boulderer.
What's rather unusual about Adam's ascent is that it was bolted ground up. I don't know if this has ever been done on a 9a, but I doubt it, and it looks epic.
The name of the new route is To tu ještě nebylo and it's located in the Elbe valley in the Czech Republic.
Lately, the young Czech has been spending time working an infamous project at Oliana with Chris Sharma. Cedric Lachat, who is quite a strong climber himself had a play on it and said that, in comparison, Shaxi, 9a+, felt like a warm up. This would mean it's not easy. Or as Adam put it ...the preliminary name speaks for itself - La dura dura...
If Adam's route was unusual, I guess Rustam's couldn't be more classic. Wolfgang Güllich's Action direct at Waldkopff in Frankenjura was first climbed more than 20 years ago for first ever of the grade .
This was the Russian's 2nd 9a after Kinematix at Gorges du Loup which he did in 2008.
This week's Friday Night Video follows Irish climber David Fitzgerald on Voyager Sit Start 8B+ at Burbage North. After sending... Read more
The 2017 Berghaus Dragon's Back Race came to a sizzling climax yesterday, as competitors completed the 5-day route in... Read more
14 year old Emily Phillips from Cardiff placed 3rd in the IFSC European Youth Cup (Bouldering) in Soure, Portugal last... Read more
This weekend Adam Ondra and Patxi Usobiaga visited Klättercentret Stockholm for a Black Diamond event with slideshows,... Read more
Adam Ondra has made the second ascent of Stefano Ghisolfi's Lapsus, 9b, at Andonno, Italy. He then went on to repeat Matteo... Read more