Alexander Megos, the German teenager who made the world's first 9a onsight recently, has made the first ascent of what's probably the hardest route in Frankenjura, Classified, 9a+, on the Holzgauer wand.
The new route, a ~20m fiesta of small shallow pockets followed by even smaller shallower ones, is a direct exit to Guido Köstermeyer's Des Mos, 8b+, and was bolted by Christian Bindhammer some 10 years ago. It has since been tried unsuccessfully by both himself and Markus Bock.
Alexander needed a grand total of three days, which still sounds more than it was as the first was quite a while ago, the second was to work out the sequences and the third was only one go, the ascent itself!
I guess it's worth mentioning this was Alexander's first ever first ascent...
Alex Megos is sponsored by DMM
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