Ganesha, 8c multi pitch, rope solo first ascent by Fabi Buhl

by Björn Pohl - UKC 14/Mar/2017
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Fabian Buhl has made the first ascent of Ganesha, 8c multi pitch, on the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Steinplatte, Austria. Not only that: he did it rope solo.

The 200m, six pitch route has only four bolts, meaning Fabi risked some very big falls by employing his chosen redpoint solo style. I'm definitely no expert on complex self belay rope systems but I'm sure it doesn't make exposed 8c climbing any easier...

Fabi Buhl started off as a boulderer but after climbing Dreamtime, ~8C, in the spring of 2013, he broke his ankle twice. This kept him away from bouldering and he decided to have a go at traditional climbing.

The first(!) route he did was Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung, E9/10 8b+. This was in the spring of 2014. 

After this, he turned his attention to multi pitches and in the autumn the same year he repeated the Beat Kammerlander classic Silbergeier, 8b+ MP, at Rätikon. A month later he made the second ascent of Alex Huber's Nirwana, 8c+ MP on the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Steinplatte.

Then last winter, he made a winter solo ascent of Huber's Wetterbockwand at Hohee Göll. He didn't redpoint it though, so who knows, maybe that's still in the cards?

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Fabian Buhl is sponsored by: adidas, Climb On, La Sportiva, Petzl and Totem

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