Elder Statesman and a ground fall for Michele Caminati

by Nick Brown - UKC Mar/2017
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Visiting Italian climber Michele Caminati climbed Elder Statesman at Curbar Edge on Monday 27th March. The following day, Michele went back on the route for photographs after top roping it again twice. Unfortunately, he fell from the crux and the resulting fall severed his rope, causing him to hit the ground. A neighbouring climbing group which included a paramedic arrived to offer help and The Edale Mountain Rescue Team were on the scene shortly after, who got him to the Northern General Hospital in Sheffield.

Michele suffered a badly broken wrist and a broken heel, and is currently recovering in hospital. His belayer suffered a concussion but was discharged on the same night. Michele is no stranger to hard gritstone routes and boulder problems, having made several trips to the UK in the past.

The cut loose around the corner, 117 kbThe cut loose around the corner
© Mike Hutton
Before the rope cut, 110 kbBefore the rope cut
© Mike Hutton


Commenting on the accident Michele said: “I went up in the European style, with only one 10mm rope and without a helmet. This time I fell off the crux and the rope, whilst getting tense shore off against the corner. I thought I would have been safe. Perhaps I could have used the half ropes but the outcome could have been the same.

John Allen who was at the scene described a moment when Michele expressed his concern about having a lack of insurance, to which one of the Mountain Rescue team replied “don’t worry, mate, you’re in England.”

Michele would like to thank Edale Mountain Rescue and the emergency services for their rapid response to the incident and professionalism in treating him following the accident.

Michele has expressed a wish to share the below footage so other climbers are aware of the potential risks of climbing this route and the dangers of rope shearing.

UKClimbing would like to wish Michele a speedy recovery and hope to see him out on the grit again soon.

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