UKC

Angy Eiter on La Planta de Shiva, 9bInterview

© Michal Kwiatkowski

On 22 October 2017, Angela Eiter became the first woman in history to climb 9b by repeating Adam Ondra's La Planta de Shiva (9b) at Villanueva del Rosario in Southern Spain.

At a time when only two women have climbed 9a+ and only a dozen (between 10 and 17) or so men have climbed 9b, this is certainly on par with Ondra's ascent of Silence, 9c, or Nalle Hukkataival's ascent of Burden of Dreams, 9A.

Hi Angy, huge congratulations on one of the most ground breaking ascents ever!

Angela Eiter  © Michal Kwiatkowski
Angela Eiter
© Michal Kwiatkowski

Could you please tell me a little about the route, the process of deciding to try it and then working on and redpointing it?

After my ascent of 'Hades', 9a, in Nassereith/Imst I aimed to work on a harder project. I didn't really focus on a route in the 9b range.

However, the occasion came spontaneously. In October 2015 I first tried and completed the first pitch of 'Planta de Shiva', 8c. At the top I managed the crimp section of the second pitch. My husband Bernie encouraged me to check it out.

Actually, I only tried it twice back then, but I understood immediately that I was inspired by the beauty and difficulty of this line and that the route suited my style perfectly. I managed to check out all the moves, but on some parts I wasn't able to link more than two or three moves.

In January 2016 Jakob Schubert did the second ascent and said that sending the route had been the fight of his life.

These words really intimidated me and I started to question whether I'd chosen the right route. So I decided to focus on climbing the second part only, because the extension is hard enough. I don't know what grade it would get, but it's certainly a lot harder than anything I've ever climbed before.

During the two years I travelled to the route seven times in total, either for a week or when I managed to get away from work for longer, then I went there for two weeks. The rest of the time I trained at home at a similar intensity to the route.

Joy and disappointment came along with me, as the whole process was plagued with frustration in some parts. Especially when two holds broke off or when I got an inflammation on my pulley and tore my hamstring.

9a to 9b is certainly a significant step in terms of grades - was it also a big step for you personally in terms of difficulty?

Yes it is and actually I didn't believe that I could manage the whole route. So I focused on the second pitch only and this one turned out to be possible when I give it my all.

Now what? Planning a trip to Flatanger? ;-)

I hope I find another route that inspires me as much as 'Planta de Shiva'. But not at that grade please :-)

Thanks so much Angy, and congrats once again!


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Angela is undoubtedly one of the best sport and competition climbers of all time. She has won four World Championships, one European Championship and three World Cup seasons. Her other 9a redpoints include Era Vella...

Angela's Athlete Page 10 posts



24 Oct, 2017
Still buzzing off this news. I remember seeing a video of Jakob's 2nd ascent (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmfkrjlsFzU) and it looks so very very hard. Historic ascents just keep happening this year.
24 Oct, 2017
Blown away by this historic ascent by Angy. The interview mentions her work, does anybody know what she does for work if she is not a full time pro?
25 Oct, 2017
I gather this is a 2 pitch route, so Angela has effectively redpointed both pitches, albeit individually? Is it the same grade whether one does it 'big wall style' (for want of a better term!) or not? No criticism implied, just some more info on the route itself might have been nice.
25 Oct, 2017
No... From how I understood, she climbed the 1st pitch (high 8?) and fiddled around with the start of the extension. After that she focused on getting the extension dialed in. And finally redpointed the whole line. A similar example would be the original Lafaille Biographie (couldn't do the whole line, so added and anchor "mid pitch and called it good... @ 8c or something). Then Sharma worked the full line to the top (effectively "pitch 2" on top of the orig. Biographie) and called the "new line" Realization. Stellar effort fro Angie btw, but considering her "main" discipline, I'm sure a stamina fest like this suited her really well..
25 Oct, 2017
Her arms in that photo!!!!
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