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5* thumb
Dévers Emossionnel, Barrage d'Emosson. Pitch 5.
Marc Volorio
© jon
Route: Dévers Emossionnel (6c)
Climbers: Jon de Montjoye, Hilary Sharp, Ian Parsons
VOTING: from 60 votes
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User Comments

Awesome - looks like fun!
1234None - 01/Mar/09Report
Sadly no more. The route is now banned. This was a clandestine ascent in April 2002, the day before the road up to the dam opened. Brilliant route, maybe the best in the Chamonix region...!
jon - 01/Mar/09Report
Nice one - at least you did it before it was banned eh!? Who bolted it and stuck the holds on?
1234None - 01/Mar/09Report
What difficulty is it?
benbers - 01/Mar/09Report
No, this ascent was after the ban. The guy who equipped it was Marc Volorio, who took these photos. I've climbed it four times since it's first ascent in June 1996.
jon - 01/Mar/09Report
6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6c.
jon - 01/Mar/09Report
Oh, and for an idea of how steep the top pitch is, look at the rope hanging below the belay - the wide angle lens has distorted it.
jon - 02/Mar/09Report
I was thinking, what's this photo all about...then I saw the tiny figures!
Sean Kelly - 03/Mar/09Report
thats the lames thing I've ever seen, why would you go to the Alps to climb a concrete dam, you need your head looking at. go climb a rock
cwpkay - 04/Mar/09Report
...because it's there...
jon - 04/Mar/09Report
Why wouldn't you climb it, it looks awesome.
Matt Vigg - 06/Mar/09Report
magnifique! would love to do the route, looks so cool !
mr mills - 06/Mar/09Report
Is it chipped then? Or does it use gaps/cracks in the concrete?
Will Hunt - 08/Mar/09Report
No, just crimp VERY hard on bits of aggregate... <a href=''></a>
jon - 08/Mar/09Report
I believe that's the dam Bond bungy's off, in Goldeneye
Toby M - 08/Mar/09Report
No, looks a bit like it though. It was Verzasca.
jon - 08/Mar/09Report
The equivalent in the peak is Derwent Dam, a lot easier, shorter but climbed on natural grit holds. What happened to the thread by the way?
Al Evans - 09/Mar/09Report
What thread, Al?
jon - 09/Mar/09Report
looks like great fun. Why is it banned? Any hope of convincing someone to let us have a go?
Silum - 10/Mar/09Report
Not in the near future I'm afraid. It was banned when the old director of Emosson SA left and the new one didn't like what he saw. It's all still there - except for the last two hangers...
jon - 10/Mar/09Report
cwpkay's comment is interesting. What makes climbing a rock so much better or prestigious? It is all just climbing after all. Surely you go to the Alps to do things on a grand scale. This is pretty grand as far as concrete goes. Would love to spend a rest day doing this.
Will Hunt - 11/Mar/09Report
"It's all still there - except for the last two hangers..." So do you ab off then, or could you just run it out to the top? I wanna do it if I'm there this summer!
kareylarey - 11/Mar/09Report
Firstly, take a big breath and go... and secondly, you'll get arrested.
jon - 11/Mar/09Report
bit of potential for some new routing, plus a girdle would be cool.
Chris F - 12/Mar/09Report
how about a night accent with skyhooks in the holds for the end
killer headphones - 16/Mar/09Report
Sadly now there is a webcam, updated every 2 mins. You'll have to cover it up.
jon - 04/Apr/09Report
haha jon you've thought of everything! looks amazing though!
The Green Giant - 28/Apr/09Report
I remember someone telling me about this years ago. Is it in the UKC logbooks?
ERU - 10/Dec/09Report
There are so many dams that could be turned into fun, concrete playgrounds.
Roberttaylor - 03/Jul/13Report
Shame it's gone, looks awesome!
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 17/Oct/14Report
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