Sorry to spoil the party, but this is only E2 I recall? I've led this at least 3 times over the years and there is no way that this is an E4 despite what the guides say. Anyone not placing gear in the adjacent crack should not really bother with a rope in the first place. I think the original grade probably predated 'Friends'. Still it's a cracking climb as such, in the same vein as Commander Energy.

Hi Kelly. I agree, I thought it was an extremely soft touch for E4, however, if you look at the voting on here, it does still get E4. Personally, I thought it was worth taking the rope as it meant I could protect, with cams like you say, what felt to me like the Crux move. I agree, it is a great route, although I think Commander Energy has more interest.

Most people on here vote to defend a grade if the route is soft for it and they managed to do it. I doubt many E2 leaders want to find out that there impressive ascent has been downgraded to an E2 so they vote E4 anyway despite the route not being a true representation of the grade.