This first episode of our lockdown training panel discussion features Neil Gresham, Maddy Cope and Louis Parkinson talking about motivation for training during lockdown.
They discuss what lessons they learnt from the first lockdown, both from themselves and the people they work with; how did lockdown work in terms of overcoming motivational hurdles? Did they see improvements? Was there a silver lining to lockdown training? Are there any pitfalls such as injury, or a decline in general well-being?
Finally, the team give their advice for climbers who want to make a difference to their performance during this new lockdown, with the benefit of their wealth of knowledge and hindsight.
Really enjoyed this. Three very articulate and thoughtful climbers offering wide-ranging views on the current situation that we're all in. There's plenty of high quality advice and insight in this one-hour discussion that should endure well beyond lockdown.
Great to have a balance of male/female perspectives as well.
Next week's episode is on fingerboarding - if you've got any questions for Neil, Maddy or Louis feel free to get in touch and we'll get them answered on the show.
I have a question that I think would be interesting (hopefully!).
I have always thought that fingerboarding was discouraged until you reach a certain grade. In my head this was maybe around V5/6, though I’m not sure where I got this from. I have personally got to V5 ish with just climbing a lot - and no fingerboarding whatsoever, though to progress above this I would need to work on my sloper strength for example.
Is this view generally still held? It was definitely the prevailing view at my local wall maybe 4 or 5 years ago. Obviously because we can’t actually climb inside atm it’s not possible to progress in this way, but I think the general message was that with fingerboarding you’re more likely to injure yourself/ it doesn’t really benefit you that much if you can’t climb at a certain grade.
I don’t actually have any sources to quote - just general hearsay and chat! Would be good to know whether this is actually right or not!
Comments
I really enjoyed this discussion and got a lot out of it.
Really enjoyed this. Three very articulate and thoughtful climbers offering wide-ranging views on the current situation that we're all in. There's plenty of high quality advice and insight in this one-hour discussion that should endure well beyond lockdown.
Great to have a balance of male/female perspectives as well.
Lots more of this kind of thing please!
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the comments.
Next week's episode is on fingerboarding - if you've got any questions for Neil, Maddy or Louis feel free to get in touch and we'll get them answered on the show.
Nick
Hi Nick
I have a question that I think would be interesting (hopefully!).
I have always thought that fingerboarding was discouraged until you reach a certain grade. In my head this was maybe around V5/6, though I’m not sure where I got this from. I have personally got to V5 ish with just climbing a lot - and no fingerboarding whatsoever, though to progress above this I would need to work on my sloper strength for example.
Is this view generally still held? It was definitely the prevailing view at my local wall maybe 4 or 5 years ago. Obviously because we can’t actually climb inside atm it’s not possible to progress in this way, but I think the general message was that with fingerboarding you’re more likely to injure yourself/ it doesn’t really benefit you that much if you can’t climb at a certain grade.
I don’t actually have any sources to quote - just general hearsay and chat! Would be good to know whether this is actually right or not!
This was great content. Can't wait for more like this.