When people hear the word 'Skye', they automatically assume someone is talking about the Black Cuillin. For good reason, climbers have been flocking to the jagged peaks and Gabbro faces in the South of the island since the inception of climbing as a sport.

But beyond the lure of the Cuillin, and along the A855 past Portree, lies a truly Jurassic coastline with a lifetime of climbing potential, both in established climbs and new routes.

With the Trotternish Ridge and its steep basalt faces as a backdrop, and the West coast mainland and Outer Hebrides for outwards views, this really is an outstandingly beautiful place to climb. Despite there being a few popular crags such as Kilt Rock, Staffin - thanks to the inclusion of Grey Panther (E1 5b) in Extreme Rock - and Flodigarry for eye catching features such as Spantastic (HVS 4c), much of the other crags have seen very little (if any) traffic, despite there being a big climbing presence on the island throughout the summer months.

The rock here is classic dolerite columns and cracks, soaring as high as seventy metres, but more on average around forty, and as such the style is very focused on crack climbing, with literally hundreds of jamming pitches in which to test your skills unlike anywhere else in the UK.

I once read someone describe the North East coastline of Skye as the Indian Creek of Scotland, and I can't imagine a better training ground for a UK based climber to get themselves acquainted with crack climbing than here. The rock, at its best, is outstanding, with the likes of Staffin Slip South having multiple sound and solid crack lines that swallow camming devices, making for a safe and secure feeling outing.

The flip side of this is a more denatured style on the main cliffs around Rubha Hunish. The cliffs may require gentle handling, but many of the climbs will become much better with some traffic. Those willing to put up with the slight looseness will be repaid greatly in both quality of climbing and the positions of the routes.

As a feature of these being long and/or demanding routes, there is less climbing in the lower grades, and the coastline really comes into its own for people operating between HVS-E4. Lots of cams (minimum double set on the longer routes) up to the biggest sizes will be found more than useful as will some form of hand protection.

Thankfully, the weather by the coast on Skye is often much better than that in the mountains, and I've driven through rain all the way from Fort William to Portree to pop out the other side into glorious sunshine and dry rock.

Much of the climbing faces East so will stay dry during showers but the cracks can take a bit of time to dry out after heavy rain. Staffin Slips and Little Kilt catch the sun in the morning, and Rubha Hunish and Bornesketaig don't get the sun until after 2pm in midsummer so are worth leaving until late afternoon/evening on a sunny day.

Little Kilt

An excellent and relatively recent find from Lochaber legends Mick and Kathy Tighe and Stevie Abbot, developed over several raiding missions. These cracks are superb and offer 35-40 metre jamming pitches on excellent natural lines with mostly good rock and protection, and being less than five minutes walk from the carpark makes it the most easily accessed crag along the coast.

Beautiful views to Kilt Rock and a lot of wild flowers at the base of the routes make this a very pleasant place to climb. There are countless new routes to do here, but most of the lines require cleaning beyond what the average person is willing to put in. For those that are willing, though, there are several fine routes waiting to be uncovered.

Sample of routes:

Vanguard (E1 5b) - An outstanding 40m pitch easily accessed from the descent gully. A triple set of cams up to at least Gold Camalot will be found useful.

Endless Tide (E1 5b) - Another excellent adventure up the main crack system in the middle of Hudsons Bay. At least a double set up to Gold Camalot required.

Midsummers Men (HVS 5b) - Fun climbing up the left side of the huge leaning pillar to the right of Endless Tide. Chimneying leads to the top of the pillar and a memorable step across gains the main face and cliff top.

Staffin Slip South - Staffin Slips

This crag was developed over a matter of weeks in the late 80s, headed by the legendary Ed Grindley and friends. They must've thought they'd struck gold coming across these huge towering columns of dolerite in an idyllic setting a few hundred meters from the sea.

Unfortunately, after a spell of popularity they fell into a state of neglect and not many people ventured here after tales of ivy, lichen, and grass overtaking many of the choice lines. A squad of local Staffin climbers, namely James and Doug Sutton (amongst others), have since revamped the crag and given it a modern feel, adding several excellent new lines as well as installing some bolted anchors atop the crag. Previously, climbers needed to rely on old rotting stakes or have their own supply, but the crag is now a much more friendly place to hone your skills.

The style here is quite technical and requires a lot of calf stamina bridging between columns, as well as the ability to finger lock and hand jam. The rock feels smoother than the dolerite found elsewhere on Skye, but is superbly featured and well protected. Take a single rope and as many small-medium cams as you can carry.

Sample of routes;

Sasha (E2 5c) - A superb pitch up the twin cracks to the right of Easy Day for a Lady. Memorable moves over the roof lead to a final tricky step to reach the top.

Easy Day For A Lady (HVS 5a) - Enjoyable climbing up the well protected corner crack left of Sasha. Once very overgrown, it has seen a big clean up effort to leave behind a very fine route.

Wildwood (E5 6a) - Immortalised in picture and print in The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland book, this test piece from Pete Herd is sure to become a classic crack pitch.

Staffin Slip North - Staffin Slips

This crag sees a lot less traffic despite it being closer to the slipway, and climbing here feels almost prehistoric, with a jumble of boulders and trees at the base are a testament to its Lost World-ly appearance.

For those that don't mind a bit of greenery, there's a lot to go at here, and it would benefit from seeing more climbers. It diminishes in height from right to left, with the most eye-catching feature being the cracked prow taken by Staffin Classic between the change in faces. Much the same as the South Slip, a good jamming ability and strong calves along with grit, determination, and lots of cams will be useful.

Sample of routes;

Staffin Classic (a.k.a. Kilt Classic) (E2 5b) - Originally graded HVS, this is a fine journey up the cracked prow. It goes from being fingers, to hands, to arms, to full on body jamming in the top section with perfect protection in the right wall despite its fearsome appearance.

Jean and Jim (E1 5b) - Two pitches up the wall left of Staffin Classic. Only one repeat ascent recorded on UKC and originally done using a point of aid on the crux, this is definitely one for the adventurous heads.

Mr Scratchy (E1 5b) - Probably unrepeated, the guidebook description will either fill you with excitement or pure terror. The simultaneous abseil descent from the top of the column also sounds like fun. If you're still with me, the bigger the better in terms of cam selection.

Rubha Hunish

The cliffs below the area of the Lookout Bothy. To call them outcrops is a bit of a disservice, as they offer the longest climbs next to the sea on Skye outwith An t-Aigeach at Neist. This truly is an awe inspiring place with sometimes intricate lines that often have loose approach pitches, but are well worth persevering with for quality climbing above.

The climbing here is relatively recent and wasn't fully developed until the 90s, but even after development from a host of locals and climbers from further afield, there are still new routes appearing each year. Originally kept a hushed secret, Whispering Crack was a fine prize for Willie Jeffrey and Noel Williams, but afterwards they somehow managed to miss all the other climbing on both Meall Tuath and Meall Deas, which would later be swept up by Bill Birkett, Mark Hudson, and Andrew Holden.

Described by the current SMC guidebook (if I may) as containing 'uniquely Gothic walls and pinnacles' - I can't think of a better use of words - these cliffs will continue to inspire future climbers for years to come.

Recommended routes;

Meall Tuath - Rubha Hunish

Friends in the North (E2 5b) - Superb, varied climbing aiming for a wide crack on the right hand side of the wall, then up and left to a thin and committing finish which provides the technical crux of the route.

Northern Lights (E2 5c) - Genius in finding a way through the steepness at a modest grade, this looks totally improbable from below. Pay close attention to the description on P2 which leads to a great stance at an eyrie. The final pitch takes the ramp/groove leading left and up in a stupendous position to the top.

Meall Duas - Rubha Hunish

Master of Morgana (HVS 5b) - Wonderful climbing up the crack and chimney just left of the right edge. Another improbable looking line but holds and gear keep appearing, worth having several big cams and some determination for P2.

Minch and Tatties (E1 5b) - Possibly the best route of its grade I've been lucky enough to do on Skye, this takes a corner leading out left to a good ledge below the imposing upper wall. A series of cracks lead up the blank looking wall, providing gear and holds regularly. Take a minute to savour the exposure before pulling onto the ledge at the top.

Gothic Walls - Rubha Hunish

Northern Exposure (E2 5b) - A great pin straight line that goes through the 3m upper roof. Despite being slightly grassy, the rock and cracks are excellent before a wild series of moves left under the big roof leads to easier ground.

Whispering Crack (E3 5c) - This needs no introduction, probably the reason most climbers will be visiting the crag and arguably the longest true crack pitch in Scotland?

Rendezvous (E4 6a) - Described as 'one of the best crack climbs in Britain' and only seen its first ascent in 2021. If recent ascents comments are anything to go by, this route is destined to be a future classic.

Bornesketaig

When viewed from Rubha Hunish, these cliffs look like one continuous set of organ pipes running along the northern coastline of the old crofting settlement of the same name.

Originally developed in the late 80's and early 90's, they fell into disregard as other venues were being found, and whilst some locals were cleaning the routes, the crag never became popular. This was probably in part due to the upper sections of most routes having poorer quality rock, and the cliff top giving no natural anchors.

That was until recent years, when Lochaber climbers Colin 'Cog' Moody, Cynthia Grindley, and Steve Kennedy had the genius idea of installing fixed lower offs at the top of the solid sea washed dolerite to circumvent the need to climb the tottering columns above.

With this approach they developed the Poly Wall and left several excellent crack climbs that have gained immediate attention and praise. Whilst the Poly Wall will be the main draw for most people here, there is huge potential for new routes of all standards for those willing to either install anchoring or clear the upper sections of routes. These routes are typically shorter than many of the other destinations described here, but from my experience so far, are amazingly sustained from the word go and will really force you to move on jams and sometimes thin and poor footholds.

Jamie and Morag Skelton have also recently developed another new area between the Main and Poly Walls, with several fine looking climbs that have fixed lower offs. Bring at least a double set of cams - and potentially some triples of the middle sizes - as well as some form of protection for your hands, as the rock is often smooth but knobbled inside the cracks.

Sample of routes;

Power to Believe (E1 5b) - A wonderful 20m jamming pitch that is involved the whole way. The crux is probably about half way but the top section isn't a pushover.

Tripoli (E2 5b) - At the far left of the Poly Wall, tough moves off the ground lead to sustained climbing and the lower off.

Polystyrene (HVS 5a) - A rogue winter swell must've wedged a piece of this route's namesake into the lower section. Tough moves up the twin cracks to a lower off.

Glue Cuts (E1 5b) - Just left of the right bay before the crag changes direction, the description talks about climbing twin cracks but the rightmost one seems the most logical line at the grade. Either way, another excellent jamming pitch that relents slightly as height is gained.

So, there you have it. A collection of crags to visit the next time you're on Skye and the Cuillin is shrouded in heavy mist or your legs need a break from walking uphill. There's literally a lifetime of climbing to be done just on this coast alone, so make sure to drop in when you're thinking of going somewhere a little quieter and you might just be surprised by how good the cragging here really is.

Isle of Skye crags	# climbs	Rocktype	Faces
Am Basteir	28	Gabbro	all
An Aird	15	Granite	E
An Caisteal West Face	7	Gabbro	W
An Caisteal, Harta Face	5	Gabbro	SE
An Camastac	1	UNKNOWN	?
An Caol, Raasay	4	Gneiss	SW
An Cruachan	1	UNKNOWN	all
An Dorus Buttress	0	Gabbro	?
An Garbh-choire	0	Gabbro	all
An Sguman	20	Gabbro	all
An Stac	4	Gabbro	?
Ardhuish Point	5	UNKNOWN	all
Arnaval	1	UNKNOWN	all
Balmacquien	20	UNKNOWN	?
Bealach Buttress	12	Gabbro	?
Beinn a' Bhraghad	1	UNKNOWN	all
Beinn Bhac-ghlais	1	UNKNOWN	all
Beinn Bhreac	1	UNKNOWN	all
Beinn Bhreac	1	UNKNOWN	all
Beinn Chreagach	1	UNKNOWN	all
Beinn Dearg Mheadhonach	1	UNKNOWN	all
Beinn Dearg Mhor	1	UNKNOWN	all
Beinn Dearg Mhor	1	UNKNOWN	all
Beinn Dhubh	12	UNKNOWN	all
Beinn na Caillich	1	UNKNOWN	all
Beinn na Cro	1	UNKNOWN	all
... list all 200 crags in this area
Total climbs	2474