UKC

The File - Small Route, Massive Reputation

© UKC

Some routes have a reputation that precedes them and The File (VS 4c) is one of those. Ironically, size is something that both the route and its first ascentionist have in common, insofar as both are on the shorter side, but are equally renowned for their ability to pack a punch. Don Whillans' routes are famed for their fight, often requiring a thuggish and determined approach, and The File is no exception. Whilst the advent of jamming gloves may have taken some of its edge off, you still have to know how to jam, and if you don't - you'd better brace yourself!

You've only got to have a quick scan of the UKC Logbooks to see that this is a route that makes its mark. There are several common themes that crop up, and the first is the grade.

Even the guidebook acknowledges the controversy, acknowledging that "arguments about the grade continue", and whilst the voting in the logbooks finds a majority around 'High VS', it also shows that some people find it easier and some people find it much, much harder. The answer as to which category you'll fit into largely depends on how well you can jam, which comes onto the next point people tend to focus on...

A really good route but grade is gaslighting ridiculousness

C Rettiw

"Crikey. Hardest VS I've ever done, and harder than a lot of HVS/E1s"

AlexxelA

Probably not ideal for a first VS

Kevster

Lucy Creamer on The File (VS 4c), Higgar Tor, Peak District  © Jamie Moss
Lucy Creamer on The File (VS 4c), Higgar Tor, Peak District
© Jamie Moss

Jamming has had a a renaissance in recent years, with WideBoyz Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall popularising a form of climbing that probably hasn't received this much love and attention since its heyday in the 1950s. However, in spite of its modern day popularity - and annual events such as Crack Fest - it's still not easy! The advent of jamming gloves have undoubtedly made it easier, not least because it's a whole lot more comfortable, but even if pain tolerance weren't a factor, there's a lot of technique that remains - you have to know how to jam!

To make matters worse, despite looking relatively uniform from a distance The File does vary in size throughout, so you need a wide repertoire of skills. The steep section at the start will likely cause people trouble, but the real trouble will begin for many when the crack widens higher up the route. If there's some good news, it's that it's incredibly well protected, but be sure not to place your cams where your hands need to go.

Feels awful if you can't jam, which I certainly cannot

Adam_bravery

I'm not a crack climber

beznazwy

Got absolutely spanked on this, so pumpy. Had to have a sit down twice!!

JonLongshanks

The File  © Rockfax Digital
The File
© Rockfax Digital

The final thing people comment on, though, is perhaps what is most important - and that is the quality. In spite of its small size, this is a route that really means something to people.

There are probably several reasons for this, and the first is that it's an absoulte classic, put up by a legend of the sport. The next is that - being as photogenic as it is - it's likely that everyone is aware of it from quite early on within their climbing career, as it's front and centre within each and every guidebook to the area. Finally, there's also that certain sense of allure to something you know will probably be a sandbag. If you know a route has a reputation, it's going to mean that bit more to you as/when/if you climb it, and if you don't - you're just adding to its reputation.

An absolute classic that lived up to all the hype. The only Whillans route that I'm likely to do!

Bob M

The best outing on Grit?

Tom265

Probably the best jamming crack I've ever climbed!"
stratandrew

Joe Brown and Don Whillans.  © Ken Wilson Collection
Joe Brown and Don Whillans.
© Ken Wilson Collection

Guidebook

Eastern Grit Cover
Eastern Grit

The new edition of the country’s best-selling guidebook has taken crag coverage to a new level. Using better cameras, drone photography and better technique at processing the images we have created by far the best set of crag shots ever assembled for the eastern gritstone edges of the Peak District. This includes superb overview photos plus brilliant buttress photos of crags like Black Rocks, Cratcliffe, Curbar and Wharncliffe which have previously been much harder to photograph.

More info





1 Jan

Lovely film, but it might be even more watchable if they swapped leader and second. Rob has too much in reserve to get a feel for what this route is like for the average punter

1 Jan

I'm surprised. I climbed it several times in the 90s and always found it pretty straightforward.

1 Jan

Having seen Tim boulder some terrifying micro route/highball problem in another UKC vid (a mat review maybe?) I can't imagine he really would have that much problem on the File! I also think Rob was semi cheating holding the breaks and crimping something in the crack at some point. 😉

I climbed at Wharncliffe for the first time in years two days ago so can now recommend Overhanging Crack (S 4b) for any aspirants one 'the Road to the File'. It's in the BMC guide as VDiff, S 4b in Rockfax. If you go and do it and think "yeah, I'd go with the BMC grade", you're probably ready for the File. 😆

p.s. has anyone seen UKC Tim and Prof Brian Cox in the same room? No? Thought not! 🙂 Happy New Year all.

1 Jan

Maybe UKC should just expense a few sets of punters to have a go and film the ensuing?

The thing I enjoyed most about this video is the guest narration by physicist Brian Cox.

More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email