UKC

Belgians Go Big on Baffin

© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Olive and Sean take a break from hauling on Mt. Asgard   © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Olive and Sean take a break from hauling on Mt. Asgard
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse

Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse reports on his recent successful trip to Baffin Island:

Sean Villeneuva O'Driscoll, Stephane Hanssens, Olivier Favresse and I just came back from a expedition in Baffin Island. We had an awesome trip! Free Climbing in Baffin is amazing and the potential for free climbing and first ascents seems endless. We climbed 5 routes, 3 of them new and in one of them we spent 11 days.

Our main target was to climb around Mt Asgard, which is one of the craziest looking mountains I have ever seen (Two cylindrical towers with super steep and long walls all around).

Besides the climbing, one of the main difficulties out there is the remoteness of the place. Over the course of 45 days, we hiked a full month (about 600km) ferrying loads (3 weeks up /one week down) for only two weeks of climbing! It seems ridiculous, but the climbing and the place is so unique that in the end it felt well worth it. At least all along the way up to Mt. Asgard, there was tons of incredible boulder fields with perfect soft tundra landing to keep ourselves in shape. Bouldering out there is definitely something to consider.

Expert aid climbing soloist, Silvia Vidal from Catalunya, came on the trip to make her logistics as a soloist easier. After a few days of carrying loads to the base of Tirokwa wall (her original objective), She didn't feel enough connection with the wall to spend all the effort of putting up a new route solo. Instead she decided to do some trekking. We decided to invite her to come along climbing Mt. Asgard . For us, as free climbers, we thought it would be interesting and we could learn from having an aid climber along... (Plus she had a Portaledge which was nice, as originally we decided to go with one portaledge and two hammocks to be lighter. Now only one of us would have to sleep in a hammock!)

 

After a few days of hard hiking we couldn't handle it anymore and had to climb something.

Nico Favresse

Sean practicing his best skill ;) up Mt. Asgard   © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Sean practicing his best skill ;) up Mt. Asgard
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Right as we started hiking up the Weasel Valley, many walls appeared. After a few days of hard hiking we couldn't handle it anymore and had to climb something. We split in two teams and between the hard choices of all the walls around we picked two and went for it.

Sean and Steph made most likely the first ascent of the Northwest Buttress of Tirokwa peak by putting up Chocolate Boomerang, (700m, 5.11), all free, then reached the main summit in a 24 hour push camp to camp. Chocolate Boomerang follows a line previously attempted by Australians. The rock is meant to be excellent and the climbing thin with some run out sections. Meanwhile, my brother Olivier and I went for a virgin tower detached from Mt Odin. We climbed the most obvious feature of the spire, which is the prow, and put up le bic rouge de Odin in 20 pitches of 5.10 which is likely to be the first ascent of the spire.

With a bit of climbing in, we felt better ferrying loads all the way (60km) to the base of our main target: Mt Asgard. After a reconnaissance on two already established aid routes, Inukshuk on the north tower and the Bavarian Route on the south tower, we chose to attempt to free climb the Bavarian Route. We found the climbing to be of excellent quality and very sustained with a bunch of pitches in the 5.12/5.13 range. And after a 11 day stay on the wall splitting the lead of the hard pitches between all of us, we almost succeeded in freeing a line. Because the ice melted since the first ascent in 1996, we found the starting anchor of the route hanging 15 meters above the ground. So now the route has a new pitch in a blank section of rock. After a failed attempt to free climb it ground up, we sent Silvia (our aid expert) with her babies (Copperheads, hooks and other funky tools) to solve what turned out to be “a really nice A4+” in her own words. For us the potential ground fall hanging on copperhead #1 seemed pretty nasty! We had to headpoint that pitch but it went free at 5.12-X or E8. Most of the harder pitches had to be redpointed and a few headpointed in order to not add any bolts.We found the quality of the rock and the climbing to be outstanding on that wall. Most of the pitches were splitter cracks combined with hard face climbing traversing from one crack to another.

 

For us the potential ground fall hanging on copperhead #1 seemed pretty nasty! We had to headpoint that pitch but it went free at 5.12-X or E8.

Nico Favresse describes the first pitch

Nico going for it on the heady slab of pitch 1. The granite is incredibly featured allowing us to face climb a lot .  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Nico going for it on the heady slab of pitch 1. The granite is incredibly featured allowing us to face climb a lot .
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
In order to free climb we did a bunch of variation from the original line so almost half of the route is new terrain. We called our variation “ The Belgarian” to underline the joint effort of the Bavarians with the Belgians. Although we have to say that the first ascent wasn't done in best style: many bat hook holes, rivet ladders and a few bolts next to perfect cracks.

On pitch 7, a short section of 1 meter I wasn't able to link with the beginning of the pitch. I did all the moves so there is no doubt that the route goes free. It was just a bit too hard for us, especially after all the hiking. That crux pitch would go probably at a minimum of 5.13+. So instead of freeing everything we had to use a move of aid. We should also mention that some of the other pitches were redpointed after we reached the summit.

 

“After a few days of recovery and jamming with accordion, mandolin, tin whistle, harmonica and drums we set off for the north tower in alpine style.”

 

Sean and Stephane repeated the Porter Route in 24 hour of non-stop climbing. They onsighted every pitch except for 3 which they say would go free with a bit of work.

Olivier and I climbed the North-East face of the north tower with we believe a new line following serenity crack (classic Yosemite crack) like splitters. We think the upper part of the climb might share some pitches with a line put up this season by Canadian climbers, Jon walsh and Chris Brazeau. The quality of the climb was amazing. Both of us climbed it free with no fall and onsight in about 24 hour. The climb is very sustain in the 5.10/5.11 range and the climbing is at times delicate with run outs on faces between cracks.

Overall we had an awesome time climbing in Baffin. The weather was extremely good with comfortable temperatures and almost no precipitations. In the summer, there are no nights in Baffin so it's great for long alpine pushes. We didn't have to use any headlamp the whole time we were there! We will definitely have to go back. The future of big wall free climbing is out there.

Nico Favresse

List of routes climbed :

  • First ascent of “Le bic rouge d'Odin” 5.10, 800m, unclimbed virgin tower climbed onsight in a push
  • First ascent of “ Chocolate boomerang” 5.11, 700m, Tirokwa wall climbed onsight in a push
  • “The Belgarian” 5.13 A1, 850m west face of Asgard's south tower climbed in 11 days, Big wall style. One aid move.
  • First ascent “ Whisky Gonzales” 5.11, 1200m northeast buttress of Asgard's north Tower, climbed onsight in a push
  • “Porter route” 5.12 /A4 climbed in a push, north face of Asgard's north Tower. 3 pitches were not freed.

Photo Gallery - Baffin Island:

(Click on the photos to enlarge)

There are incredible boulders everywhere in the weasel valley.     © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
There are incredible boulders everywhere in the weasel valley.
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Nico on the final pitches of "Whisky Gonzales".  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Nico on the final pitches of "Whisky Gonzales".
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Midnight light. It didn't get any darker than this during our whole expedition.  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Midnight light. It didn't get any darker than this during our whole expedition.
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Olive on one of the many superb thin cracks of "Whisky Gonzales"  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Olive on one of the many superb thin cracks of "Whisky Gonzales"
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Nico pushing on the making of "Whisky Gonzales"  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Nico pushing on the making of "Whisky Gonzales"
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Sean taking a rest in the hand jams of the incredible pitch 6 of the Belgarian  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Sean taking a rest in the hand jams of the incredible pitch 6 of the Belgarian
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
The Belgian team. Left to right : Sean, Nico, Steph and Olive.  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
The Belgian team. Left to right : Sean, Nico, Steph and Olive.
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
The quality of the climbing is amazing. Here Nico making his way to the summit on perfect hand cracks.  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
The quality of the climbing is amazing. Here Nico making his way to the summit on perfect hand cracks.
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
On the way to the summit, Olive take his breath in the middle of an offwidth    © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
On the way to the summit, Olive take his breath in the middle of an offwidth
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
The wall was really sustained with hard pitches on top of each other. Here Steph take his turn to try to redpoint pitch 5.  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
The wall was really sustained with hard pitches on top of each other. Here Steph take his turn to try to redpoint pitch 5.
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Portaledge party up Mt. Asgard  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Portaledge party up Mt. Asgard
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Olive lost this time;)  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Olive lost this time;)
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Our light big wall strategy involved sleeping in hammock. Only rock, paper, scissors could chose who's turn it was.   © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Our light big wall strategy involved sleeping in hammock. Only rock, paper, scissors could chose who's turn it was.
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Silvia finding her way free on the pitch 3 of the belgarian  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Silvia finding her way free on the pitch 3 of the belgarian
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Steph on pitch 2 of the Belgarian    © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Steph on pitch 2 of the Belgarian
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
The team. From left to right : Steph, Olive, Nico, Sean and Silvia  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
The team. From left to right : Steph, Olive, Nico, Sean and Silvia
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Our last Load to Mt.Asgard  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Our last Load to Mt.Asgard
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Looking out the plane towards the weasel valley  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Looking out the plane towards the weasel valley
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Expert aid climber Silvia Vidal and her Babies  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Expert aid climber Silvia Vidal and her Babies
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
About 600km of walking we did for about 2 weeks of climbing.  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
About 600km of walking we did for about 2 weeks of climbing.
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Favresse brothers and Sean talking about the battle plan  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Favresse brothers and Sean talking about the battle plan
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Olive crimping hard trying to redpoint pitch 6 of the Belgarian  © Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse
Olive crimping hard trying to redpoint pitch 6 of the Belgarian
© Hanssens/Villanueva/Favresse

 

 


We would like to thanks our sponsors for their crucial support : The Belgian Alpine club, Black Diamond , Patagonia , Sterling ropes , Milo , Five Ten , Boreal , Petzl , Seeonee , Crux , Julbo, belclimb.net, climb.be, UPMM.



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26 Sep, 2009
Yet another amazing effort from those boys. To me they are the spearhead of climbing at the moment, not anyone on the grit or pebble wrestling... but then it's just my opinion and it counts for nowt in the scales of things=)
26 Sep, 2009
I'm with you Erick, this is super inspirational stuff! You go guys! Jack
26 Sep, 2009
Agreed. Absolutely awesome, what a place!
26 Sep, 2009
Looks gobsmacking! Excellent article and shots.
26 Sep, 2009
Incredible. One of those stories that makes me keep training in the hope that I might one day be able to do something like it!
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